
A
G-TRAC2
IOM-25
38 of 42
Mar 99 R7
Air Balancing
(Refer to next item).
Cold Discharge Temperature in Cold Weather
Installation and air balancing is often done during warmer weather than that experienced in the cold of winter. If the air
balancer did not allow for the changes that will occur in air volume in cold weather then the unit will appear to be short of
temperature rise. The fan is a constant volume device and as it is located before the heat exchanger; therefore, air will
expand as it is heated. The amount of change will be about 20% increase in air volume from -30ºF to +70ºF.
To give a rough idea, assume a 10,000-CFM unit is located in an area that reached -30ºF in the winter was being air
balanced on a 75ºF day with the heat off. The unit design temperature rise is 100ºF. It should be balanced to deliver about
8,200 CFM. On a day that is -30º, the fan is still delivering 8,200 CFM onto the heat exchanger, but as the air expands over
the exchanger there is 10,000 CFM coming off of the unit. Temperature rise should meet the 100ºF design to give a
discharge temperature of 70ºF. If the unit had been balanced to deliver 10,000 CFM on the 75ºF day, then on the -30ºF day
noted above, the temperature rise would only be about 80ºF to give a final discharge temperature of about 50º at about
11,800 CFM.
Ignition Problems
Check the condition of the pilot assembly. Check for damaged or dirty ceramics, proper gasket, and pilot set up. If you are
still having problems lighting the burner, check the items itemized below.
If these are all OK, check the combustion settings. Either the manifold pressure is incorrect, orifices plugged, the curve
matching pot is set wrong, or the combustion air set incorrect. For further information refer to the section for combustion
set up.
If you have been having problems lighting the burner, check the following items:
1.
If the combustion has been set up, the ignition should be checked. Whenever the total air slider has been adjusted it
affects how much air flows into the pilot air tube.
2.
Occasionally some ignition control devices have the power to throw a spark through the casing to the mounting screw
near the spark connection, or through the back of the case. Mount the ignition control off the wall on insulated spacers
and do not install a mounting screw next to the spark wire location.
3.
Check the resistance of the flame and spark rod to the wire connector terminal on the rod. This should not exceed 2-
ohms. If it does, replace the assembly.
4.
Ensure that the ignition control and its transformer secondary are both adequately grounded. If there is not an
adequate ground then there will be a weakened flame rod signal.
5.
Some extreme cases of airborne electrical noise a special sheathing is available to shield heavy ignition spark wire.
Please consult factory. It may be necessary to install a ground wire from burner ground terminal to chassis. Scrape the
paint on chassis.
6.
Spark gap should be set at 1/8 inch.
7.
Check for cracked porcelains on the spark and flame rods. These have been found to be cracked in the area where they
pass through the mounting plate also. You cannot see into this area and you can even have it feel tight.
(If possible it
may be best to check it with an ignition device.)
8.
Ensure there are no burrs or dirt in the pilot line orifice and air tube. These items have often been found with dirt, rust,
insulation, paper, etc., blocking them. This includes checking the short connector at the blower housing where the
rubber tube attaches. Also ensure no capacitor mounting screw is blocking the inlet to the pilot tube.
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