20
20
2. Work from the left end of the table toward the right and loosely install the mounting screws to
support and align the rails and extensions.
Note: Do Not install the fence guide tube
onto the front rail until the rails and extensions are
aligned and tightened.
3. Using the miter gauge and then another straight
edge, allow for a 1/16” (1.58mm) gap between the
bottom of the straightedge and the top of the rail.
4. Hold the rail in this positon and fully tighten the
fasteners
5. Check to make sure the top edge of front and rear rails allow the miter gauge to slide
smoothly when installed later.
6. Install and tighten the fence guide tube to the front rail.
7. Place the fence on the rails to the right side of the blade.
Note: Make sure the cam foot contacts the
cam on the fence lock handle before you place the fence
on the rail, otherwise the fence will not lock into the rail
tube.
8. Checking fence parallelism.
•
Slide the fence along the rail. If it drags across the
table, adjust the foot at the rear of the fence to raise
the fence off of the table just enough so that the gap
between the fence and the table is even from front
to back.
•
Slide the fence up against the right-hand edge of the
miter slot and lock it in place. Examine how the
fence lines up with the miter slot.
Note: It is permissible for the back of the
fence to pivot outward not more than 1
⁄
64" (.39mm) from
being parallel to the blade. This creates a slightly larger
opening between the fence and the blade, at the rear of
the blade, to reduce the risk of workpiece binding or
burning as it is fed through the cut. Many woodworkers intentionally set up their fence in this
manner. Keep this in mind before adjusting your fence.
Important: Never have the adjustment set to have the back of the fence closer to
the blade than the front of the fence.
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