23
E N G L I S H •
User’s manual
MITER CUT (Fig. 18)
1. Unlock the miter
handle (1) by turning
counterclockwise.
2. Turn the miter table
(2) to the degree of
angle desired.
3. Tighten the miter handle to lock the table
in position before beginning the cut. Position
your body in line with the miter angle to make
the cut. Do not stand in front of the saw.
• When cutting long pieces of lumber or mold-
ing, support the opposite end of the stock with
a roller stand or with a work surface level with
the saw table.
• Align cutting line on the workpiece with the
edge of saw blade.
• Grasp the stock firmly with one hand and
secure it against the fence or use the optional
work clamp or a C-clamp to secure the work-
piece.
• Before turning on the saw, perform a dry run
of the cutting operation just to make sure that
no problems will occur when the cut is made.
• Grasp the saw handle firmly then squeeze the
switch trigger. Allow several seconds for the
blade to reach maximum speed.
• Slowly lower the blade into and through the
workpiece.
• Release the switch trigger and allow the saw
blade to stop rotating before raising the blade
out of workpiece. Wait until the electric brake
stops blade from turning before removing the
workpiece from the miter table.
BEVEL CUT
A bevel cut is made by cutting across the grain
of the workpiece with the blade angled to the
workpiece. A straight bevel cut is made with the
miter table set at the zero degree position and
the blade set at an angle between 0° and 45°.
• Pull out the lock pin and lift saw arm to its
full height.
• Loosen the miter lock levers.
• Rotate the saw table until the pointer aligns
with zero on the miter scale.
• Tighten the miter lock levers securely.
• Loosen the bevel lock knob and move the
saw arm to the left to the desired bevel angle.
• Bevel angles can be set from 0° to 45°.
• Align the indicator point for the desired
angle.
• Once the saw arm has been set at the desired
angle, securely tighten the bevel lock knob.
• Place the workpiece flat on the miter table
with one edge securely against the fence. If the
board is warped, place the convex side against
the fence. If the concave edge of a board is
placed against the fence, the board could col-
lapse on the blade at the end of the cut, jam-
ming the blade.
• When cutting long pieces of lumber or mold-
ing, support the opposite end of the stock with
a roller stand or with a work surface level with
the saw table.
• Align the cutting line on the workpiece with
the edge of saw blade.
• Grasp the stock firmly with one hand and
secure it against the fence or use the optional
work clamp or a C-clamp to secure the work-
piece.
• Before turning on the saw, perform a dry run
of the cutting operation just to make sure that
no problems will occur when the cut is made.
• Grasp the saw handle firmly then squeeze the
switch trigger. Allow several seconds for the
blade to reach maximum speed.
• Slowly lower the blade into and through the
workpiece.
• Release the switch trigger and allow the saw
blade to stop rotating before raising the blade
out of workpiece. Wait until the electric brake
stops blade from turning before removing the
workpiece from miter table.
COMPOUND MITER CUTS
A compound miter cut is a cut made using a mi-
ter angle and a bevel angle at the same time.
This type of cut is used to make picture frames,
cut molding, make boxes with sloping sides,
and for certain roof framing cuts.
To make this type of cut the control arm on
the miter table must be rotated to the correct
angle and the saw arm must be tilted to the
correct bevel angle. Care should always be tak-
en when making compound miter setups due
to the interaction of the two angle settings.
Adjustments of miter and bevel settings are in-
terdependent with one another. Each time you
adjust the miter setting you change the effect
of the bevel setting.
1
2
Fig.18
SI810 manual.indd 23
08/12/15 2:54 p.m.