Tayana VANCOUVER 42, Operation And Maintenance Manual

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cleaning would be highly recommended. Most people seem to prefer the deep brown of newly
oiled preserved teak.
There are several products on the market that make it possible to keep the beautiful brown of
teak without a great deal of heavy labor. Cleaners are strong and corrosive and must be used
infrequently and with great care. Washing and leaving the decks natural is always an option if its
condition is monitored frequently. When you receive your yacht, the teak will have been cleaned
and will be relatively dry. It should be cleaned with common washing soda that one can obtain in
the laundry section of any well-stocked grocery store. Washing soda is an excellent cleaner and
has a tendency to bleach the wood somewhat. It will not damage paint or gelcoat, unlike some
teak cleaning products, although it should be thoroughly cleaned off. Use about one cup of
washing soda in a bucket of water (more soda if the deck is really dirty). Scrub the teak with the
soda solution using one of the many plastic non-abrasive scrubbing pads or a soft brush across the
grain until the wood is thoroughly cleaned. Then rinse thoroughly and let dry. Avoid using deck or
scrub brushes, as these tend to damage the softer parts of the grain and leave the teak rough.
The number of teak oils and preservatives on the market is virtually endless. The best are those
that contain a minimum of varnish. Such oils do not leave quite as brilliant a finish, but they last
almost as long, and they age more gracefully. If one wishes to maintain the brilliant teak brown,
he will have to clean and reoil every four to six weeks in tropical areas; somewhat less frequently
is higher latitudes. Use a non-skid finish, such as Semco, etc., on areas where standing or gaining
a purchase on a line is necessary. Other finishes which are very popular include Cetol and
Armada, and those with long lasting eurethanes such as Honey Teak and Bristol Finish. The
polysulfide products that are used to caulk the teak decks merit some special consideration.
Certain of the more corrosive teak cleaners and at least one teak oil product can damage
polysulfide. As mentioned above, corrosive teak cleaners should be used infrequently and the
directions should be very carefully followed. These compounds should be washed off completely
and as soon as the directions permit, even if the product is advertised as not hurting caulking
compounds. On the other hand, teak oils that can soften polysulfide should never be used. One of
these oils is reputed to be a widely advertised two part product.
The polysulfide caulking is relatively easy to maintain and repair. The most common problem is
that the caulking pulls away from the teak and breaks the seal. When this happens, it does little
good to try to fill the resulting space with more polysulfide because the new material will adhere
neither to the old polysulfide nor to the teak. The old polysulfide should be completely removed
and then the teak should be primed with the primer recommended by the manufacturer. Once the
primer has dried, the space should be filled with fresh polysulfide – leave a bead that is higher
than the surrounding wood. It will take several days for the polysulfide to cure. Note that moisture
tends to increase the rate of curing, and it is a good idea to keep the caulking damp. Once cured,
the caulking can be sanded off flush leaving a practically invisible repair. When deck screw plugs
come off, check the screw for tightness and replace the plugs to inhibit the incursion of moisture.
C. Interior Woodwork
Interior woodwork is generally solid teak staving or teak faced plywood panel. Both of these are
maintained in the same manner if they are unvarnished or natural. If you have ordered your yacht