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Stabilizer And Elevator
60a.
Tape or pin the stabilizer/elevator plan down on a flat building board. Cover with
wax paper or plastic wrap. Locate parts S-1, S-4, S-5, S-6 (sheet 13), and parts S-
2, S-3 (sheet 14). Glue and pin these parts together over the plan.
b.
Hardpoints need to be installed in the stabilizer trailing edge S-1 for the mounting
of the tail brace wires later. A 5/16" od x1-1/2" dowel, with a 5/64" id hole thru the
center, is provided for making these hardpoints. Trial fit the dowel in the two holes
in S-1. You may need to sand the outer surface of the dowel slightly to get a good
slide fit. Cut two 5/16" long pieces of dowel and glue them into the holes in S-1.
61.
Cut six 5/16" sq. balsa stabilizer ribs from the 36" stock provided. Glue the ribs in place with Thin CA.
62a.
When the glue is dry, remove the stabilizer frame from the board and re-glue all the joints with Medium CA. Use enough
glue to completely fill the joints, plus leave a small fillet of glue between the parts. Take your time and don’t miss any joints!
Each one of them contributes to the finished strength of the stabilizer.
b.
Lay the stabilizer back on the board and lightly sand both sides to smooth out all the glue joints.
CAUTION: Do not sand so much that you thin down the stabilizer more than 1/32" under its original 5/16" thickness.
c.
Mark a center-line all the way around the edges of the stabilizer. Using the center-line as a guide, sand the edges round.
63a.
Locate parts E-1, E-3, E-4, E-5, E-6 (sheet 13), and part E-2 (sheet 14). Glue and pin these parts together over the plan.
b.
Cut to length and glue in the 5/16" sq. balsa ribs for the two elevator halves.
64a.
When the glue is dry, remove the elevators from the board and re-glue all the joints with Medium CA. Use enough glue to
completely fill the joints, plus leave a small fillet of glue between the parts.
b.
Lay the elevators back on the board and lightly sand both sides to smooth out all the glue joints.
CAUTION: Do not sand so much that you thin down the stabilizer more than 1/32" under its original 5/16" thickness.
65a.
A 3/32" dia. formed Elevator Joiner Wire is used to join the two elevator halves
into a single unit. The Elevator Joiner Wire must be inlet into the leading edge of
the elevators and then epoxied in place.
b.
The first step is to clean the Joiner Wire with paint thinner or acetone to remove
any oil or grease. Then, match up the elevators and stabilizer on the plan. Now,
place the Elevator Joiner Wire in position on top of the elevators and mark the
locations where the legs of the wire will go back into the leading edges of the
elevators. Carefully drill a 3/32" dia. hole at both locations. To best control the
centering of these holes, we suggest using a non-powered twist drill bit in a pin
vise. Make each hole 1-1/2" deep and 90 deg. to the leading edge.
c.
Groove the leading edge of the elevator to accept the shank of the Joiner Wire, from the hole you drilled all the way out the
inboard end of the elevator. This is easiest to do using a hobby knife with a #11 blade.