.
INSTALLING EASY HINGES
Sig's famous EASY HINGES have been included with your kit to hinge all of the control surfaces. Each ultra-thin hinge is
actually a three-part laminate - a tough plastic inner core sandwiched by an absorbant wicking material. They have been
chemically treated to slow down the reaction of thin CA (which is normally instant), to allow the glue time to soakall the way
to the ends of the hinge and into the wood surrounding it. Once the glue has dried, the hinge cannot be pulled from the
structure without tearing wood out with it! We recommend that all surfaces be covered before hinging.
72.
Using a No. 11 X-Acto blade (or similar), cut slots approximately 1/2" in depth and slightly wider than the hinges. Cut four
slots in the stabilizer and four slots in the elevators at the locations shown on the plans.
73.
After all of the slots have been cut, insert EASY HINGES halfway into the stabilizer slots. DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES
YET! Next, carefully slide the elevators onto the hinges. You'll find it easiest to slide the elevators onto the hinges at an
angle, one at a time, instead of trying to push it straight onto all of the hinges at once. Don't be concerned if the hinges
aren't perfectly straight or centered in the slots - they don't have a centerline.
74.
a. To set the hinge gap, deflect the elevators to the maximum amount needed. For best control response, the gap
should be as small as possible but big enough to allow full movement of the control surface.
b. EASY HINGES were designed to use THIN CA (any brand) for maximum glue penetration. Place three or four large
drops of thin CA directly onto the hinges in the gap. The glue will wick into the slot as it penetrates both the wood
and the hinge. Continue this process, gluing the same side of all of the hinges, then turn the stabilizer over and
repeat the gluing process on the other side of each hinge.
75.
After the glue has cured (3 to 5 minutes) the joint should be flexed to full deflection in each direction a couple of dozen
times to reduce the stiffness. Don't worry about shortening the life of the hinges, as they are almost indestructible.
76.
The rudder is hinged in the same manner as above, but it is easier to install AFTER the fin has been glued to the fuselage.
Cut slots for three hinges now (3 slots in the rudder, two in the fin, and one in the back of the fuselage).
NOTE: The fuselage slot may be difficult to cut, but don't be tempted to omit it. The bottom hinge is vital to the integrity of
the rudder because it absorbs loads from both the servo and the tailwheel (if used). Jab the knife straight into the joint at the
rear of the fuselage, pull it straight out, reposition it slightly, and repeat the procedure until you have a slot that's long
enough for the hinge.
77.
The ailerons are hinged exactly like the tail surfaces, but the torque rods must be glued as well. Start by cutting the slots in
the wing and the ailerons (four per aileron) and install EASY HINGES halfway into the ailerons.
78.
a. Slide a small piece of wax paper between the torque rods and the wing. Working with one aileron at a time, apply
Kwik-Set epoxy to the slot and hole in the aileron leading edge and slide it onto the torque rod, working the EASY
HINGES into the wing slots at the same time. Try not to get any epoxy on the brass tubing! Before the glue sets, be
sure to deflect the aileron back and forth to set the proper hinge gap.
b. Once the epoxy has dried, remove the wax paper and apply thin CA to the hinges as you did earlier.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
79.
a. Temporarily position the stabilizer on the stab support at the back of the fuselage. Again refer to the General
Alignment Diagram on page 20 of "The Basics of Radio Control". When satisfied with the alignment, draw cut lines
on the bottom of the stabilizer at the fuselage sides. Remove the stabilizer and cut away the covering on the bottom
where it will be glued to the fuselage using a sharp knife.
b. Glue the stabilizer to the fuselage using Kwik-Set epoxy. Recheck its alignment and adjust before the glue dries.