SIG KADET LT-40, Instruction Manual, Page: 6 / 49

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- Light-Weight Wood Filler
For filling holes, nicks, and dents after assembly of the model, but before covering. Regular household "wall repair" or
"spackling" compound (3M, Red Devil, DAP, etc.) works well for this. There are also several excellent "model fillers" available
at the hobby shop. Just make sure whatever you use is light weight and sands easily. Do not use household patching plaster
- it’s way too heavy!
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Glue
There are so many different types of glue available today for model airplane construction that it can be confusing to even the
experienced modeler. To simplify matters, most model airplane glues can be classified as one of four basic types:
1. Cyanoacrylate Adhesives , such as SIG CA, are very strong and bond in just seconds. Dramatically speeds up
building time! Different vicosity’s and cure times are available to suit all areas of model construction.
2. Two-Part Epoxy Glues , such as SIG-KWIK-SET (5-minute cure) and SIG EPOXY (3-hour cure), are super strong but
too heavy for general construction. Often used in high stress areas such as the firewall, landing gear, and wing
joiners.
3. Water-Based Glues , such as SIG-BOND (aliphatic resin), are very safe and easy to use. Excellent for general
construction, although somewhat slow drying.
4. Solvent-Based Model Cement , such as SIG-MENT, is the oldest form of traditional model airplane glue. Still used for
general construction by some modelers - especially when building super light weight free flight models.
You could build the KADET LT-40 using any of these four basic types of glue. Each type has different characteristics and
advantages, and all of them will result in a bond that is stronger than the wood materials being glued together. Often times the
choice of which type to use boils down to a matter of personal preference based on past experience. However, if you want to
get your KADET LT-40 into the air as quickly as possible, we recommend that you use CA glue for the majority of the assembly
of this kit. CA glue is not only fast and strong, but it also makes it possible to do some unique things in the construction
sequence. For instance, since CA glue has the ability to penetrate into an already assembled joint, we can first assemble the
interlocking fuselage parts "dry" (without glue), then check and adjust the alignment, and finally apply CA to the pre-assembled
joints. This makes it very easy to build a straight and true fuselage in a very short time. If the use of CA glues is new to you,
please read "TIPS ON USING SIG CA", included in this kit.
NOTE:
The instructions in this book are written assuming the use of MEDIUM CA glue for all steps, unless otherwise noted. In
other words, if an instruction simply says "glue" part A to part B - use MEDIUM CA! If THIN CA, SLOW CA, EPOXY
GLUE, or SIG-BOND GLUE would work better in a specific instance, we will call for it.
Workshop Tools And Supplies
As the old saying goes, "Having the right tool makes the job easy". That certainly holds true with building model airplanes as
well as anything else. Below is a list of the tools we feel are the minimum required to speedily and accurately assembly this kit,
and to build other model airplanes in the future. Some of them are common household tools that you probably already have,
while some are special "modeling" tools that you will have to purchase at the hobby shop. While there are many more special
modeling tools available, and they all do a wonderful job in certain areas, these are the basics with which to get started in the
hobby. Like the rest of us, eventually you will add others to your workshop as the need arises.
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Building Board - 12"x36" minimum size - This can be any flat surface that will accept and hold pins - such as insulation
board, foam board (cardboard laminated to both sides of a foam sheet), cork bulletin board, soft plywood, a reject "door core"
from the lumber yard, etc. The most important thing is that
the board must be perfectly flat and untwisted! Your wings
and tail surfaces will be built on this board, and if the board is twisted or bowed, the parts you build on it will assume the
same shape and your model will not fly properly.
NOTE:
The building board you’ll see us using in the photos in this book is an 18" x 48" piece of 3/4" thick plywood (perfectly
flat!), with a same sized piece of 1/4" thick foam board stuck down on top of the plywood with double-sided sticky tape.
The plywood provides the rigidity and flatness we need, and the semi-flexible foam board lays flat on the plywood and
gives us a surface to push pins into. All materials were obtained from the local lumber yard. Insulation board or cork
sheet would make a good substitute for the foam board, if that is not available.