SIG KADET LT-40, Instruction Manual, Page: 27 / 49

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131. Locate the pre-shaped balsa Elevator and mark the hinge locations on its leading edge. Also compare the overall length of
the Elevator to the overall length of the Stabilizer. They should already be very close to the same length, if not exactly the
same. If they aren’t, block sand the ends of the Elevator until it matches the Stabilizer.
132.
Cut slots for the hinges in the Stabilizer and Elevator following the instructions on "INSTALLING SIG EASY
HINGES" (perform steps 1 through 5). Then set the Stabilizer and Elevator aside for covering.
FIN AND RUDDER
133.
Cut the rear portion of the Fuselage Side View (the part that includes the Fin and Rudder) loose from Plan Sheet 1. Tape
or pin it on top of your building board. Cover the plan with wax paper.
134.
You should have one 5/16"x1/2"x36" balsa stick left for making parts for the Fin. The first part to cut from that stick is the
Fin Leading Edge. Use a razor saw to cut the ends of the Leading Edge at the same angles shown on the plan. Notice on
the plan that the bottom end of the Fin Leading Edge extends down into the top of the fuselage about 1/4" - be sure to cut
to the correct line! Then pin the Leading Edge in place on the plan.
135.
Next cut the 5/16"x1/2" Fin Trailing Edge. Note that the ends of the Trailing Edge should be cut 90° square. Pin the Trailing
Edge in place on the plan.
136.
Cut a piece of 5/16"x1/2" balsa for the top of the Fin. Pin it in place on the plan,
gluing it to the leading and trailing edges at the same time.
137.
Locate the 5/16" x 5/16" balsa leftover from making the Stabilizer. There should
be enough left to make the five pieces of 5/16" Sq. Balsa called for in the Fin.
Work on one piece at a time, cutting it to exact shape over the plan, angling the
ends to fit well against the adjoining pieces. Glue and pin the pieces in place.
138.
Cut two pieces of 5/16" x 1/2" balsa for the bottom of the Fin. Glue and pin them
in place.
139.
Once the glue is dry, unpin the Fin from the plan and re-glue all the joints with additional Medium CA. Use just enough
glue to completely fill the joint, plus leave a visible, but small, fillet of glue between the parts. Take your time and don’t
miss any joints! Each and every one of them contributes to the finished strength of the Fin.
140.
Lay the Fin flat on the building board and lightly block sand the entire structure just enough to smooth out all the glue
joints. Do this to both sides of the Fin.
CAUTION: Do not sand so much that you thin down the Fin more than 1/32" under its original 5/16" thickness.
141.
Block sand the top end of the Fin to make the leading and trailing edges flush
with the top 5/16" x 1/2" Balsa.
142.
Mark a center-line on the front of the Fin Leading Edge. Using the center-line as
a guide, carve and sand the front of the Leading Edge to a round shape.
NOTE: Leave the trailing edge, top end, and bottom of the Fin flat and square.
143.
Lay the Fin back on the plan and mark the locations for the Sig Easy Hinges (2
total) on the trailing edge.
144.
Locate the pre-shaped balsa Rudder and mark the hinge locations on its leading edge. Also compare the overall height of
the Rudder to the overall length of the Fin’s trailing edge. Notice on the plan that the Rudder should be 1/8" shorter in
height than the Fin’s trailing edge. This is to provide a gap between the bottom of the Rudder and the top of the Stabilizer
after the model is assembled. Sand the end of the Rudder slightly if necessary to achieve an adequate gap.
145.
Cut slots for the hinges in the Fin and Rudder following the instructions on page 23 "INSTALLING SIG EASY
HINGES" (perform steps 1 through 5). Then set the Fin and Rudder aside for covering.