HTP MTS 160, Owner'S Manual

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13
WELDING MUFFLER PIPE
Muffler pipe welding is generally done with the conical nozzle
installed on the welding gun. The conical nozzle is used
because the taper in the nozzle makes it easier to see the
welding process and allows you to weld in tighter spots.
Prior to welding two pieces of muffler pipe together, it is
recommended that two to three tack welds be placed around the
pipe. The tack welds will help hold the pipe in place while
welding, and also prevent gaps caused by warpage.
Have 1/4" to 1/2" of welding wire protruding from the end of
the gas nozzle. Have the welding gun inclined at a 45-degree
angle to the pipe. Aim the welding wire at the spot to be tacked
and momentarily depress the trigger. Hold the trigger long
enough for the welding sound to smooth out (approximately one
to two seconds). Since exhaust tubing is generally 16 ga tubing,
the voltage setting will be between 6 and 7. (See chart 3)
Now that the pipe is tacked into place, you are ready to weld the
pipe. Once again, have 1/4" to 1/2" of welding wire protruding
from the gas nozzle. Again, the welding gun is generally held at
a 45-degree angle to the pipe. It also may be tilted at a 45-angle
to the left or right. Rest the gas nozzle on the pipe and have the
wire pointing at the spot where the welding is to begin. Press
the trigger to begin welding. Slowly move the welding gun
along the weld at a constant rate. A jerky, inconsistent, or too
rapid rate will cause arc instability and a sputtering welding
sound. A rate that is too slow will cause burn-through. It is
also important that you position the welding gun so that you can
see the welding wire as it comes out past the gas nozzle. The
light produced from the wire coming in contact with the work is
the only thing that will allow you to see the "seam" through the
welding helmet. If the gas nozzle is blocking your view of the
wire, then there will not be sufficient light to see the welding
process.
HTP has a flexible swan neck welding gun available (Part
#13510) available for welding muffler pipe. The flexible swan
neck makes it possible to bend the swan neck to get into hard to
reach places and to get up over the top of the muffler pipe.
BROKEN STUD REMOVAL
Your HTP MTS 160 can be used to remove exhaust manifold
studs which have broken off flush or are protruding slightly
from the exhaust manifold. In many instances, it is not even
necessary to remove the exhaust manifold from the car.
Start with the voltage at 7 or 8. This will ensure good adhesion
of the molten wire to the stud. Point your wire directly at the
stud and momentarily depress the trigger. Weld long enough to
deposit a small puddle of molten wire on the stud and then
allow it to cool. Repeat the process until you have built up a
small puddle of molten wire on the stud and allow it to cool.
Repeat the process until you have built up a small amount of
weld. Reduce the voltage to 4 or 5 and continue building the
weld until 1/4" to 1/2" is protruding from the exhaust manifold.
The lower power setting will allow you to build up the weld
faster. Now take a 5/8" or 3/4" nut and place it on the stud.
Allow the stud to cool completely. Heat the exhaust manifold as
you normally would and remove the stud. Shops have proven
this process works 80% of the time.
WELDING CAST IRON
Your HTP MTS 160 has the ability to weld cast iron using 75%
Argon – 25% CO2 shielding gas and cast iron welding wire
(Part #50235). The cast iron welding wire will also allow you to
weld mild steel to cast iron. However, the preferred method for
welding cast iron would be TIG welding. This MIG filler,
although thin, works excellent as a TIG rod for cast iron.
When welding with the cast iron wire, welding techniques are
the same as the welding techniques for mild steel. Due to the
.035" diameter, wire feed rates for cast iron welding wire will be
lower for a given power setting than the .030" diameter steel
wire. However, the machine is tuned in the same way as with
the steel wire, listening for the “sizzling” noise.
Muffler Pipe
Flex Neck