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the upper clamp bar with their
top edges against the side stop
and the inside face is away
from the VS-600 and pointing
up at you. The side pieces are
mounted under the front
clamp bar with their top edge
against the side stops and
inside faces pointing away
from the VS-600 and facing
you with their upper edge
flush with the top (inside) face
of the front/back components.
Make the second set of
cuts and you are done!
The reality is this all takes
less time to do than to
describe. Practice a few times
and you will make a perfect
drawer with finely machined
half blind dovetail corners in
less than five minutes, and you
will do it every time.
The drawer sides will come
out exactly the size you
wanted and will be square,
and the piece will be ready to
receive the admiring looks
from your customers, friends
or family who enjoy this
hallmark of fine
craftsmanship.
Machine the Dado to
Receive the Drawer
Bottom Before Assembly
Before you assemble your
drawer, take a few moments to
machine the dado which will
hold the drawer bottom in
place. Center it up from the
bottom edge of the drawer
one-half of the template
spacing (11mm in the case of
the SZ-14 template which uses
a 22mm finger spacing and
16mm for the SZ-20 which
uses a 32mm finger spacing).
That way the dado will not
show from the outside of the
drawer.
If you want the bottom to be
removable, cut the bottom of
the BACK piece off at the
height of the top edge of the
drawer bottom dado. Now the
bottom can slide in from the
back side and can be held in
place by a screw through a slot
cut into the back edge of the
bottom piece.
I recommend making your
bottom 2mm smaller than the
inside measurement of the
dado both side to side and
front to back. That way the
1mm spacing all around will
take up any shrinking or
swelling of the drawer sides
due to normal seasonal
changes in humidity. If you
use a solid wood drawer
bottom, allow 2mm on each
edge across the grain since
wood moves far more across
its grain than with its grain.
I nearly always use solid wood
for the drawer bottom and like
to keep it from rattling by
putting a dollop of water-
based contact adhesive or
caulk in the middle of the
three trapped sides (and the
back if it is also trapped).
Neither contact adhesive nor
caulk sets up solid so the
components can still move
relative to one another, but
they do prevent the bottom
from rattling when in very dry
climatic conditions.
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