A Perfect Drawer
Using Half-Blind
Dovetail Joints
Earlier I said stock
preparation, along with the
precise engineering of the
Festool VS-600 templates,
guide bushings and cutters
was the key to achieving the
desired outcome of creating a
perfect drawer with half blind
dovetails in under five
minutes.
I use primarily solid woods for
all my furniture so will spend
some time outlining how to
get properly prepped solid
wood components.
If you want to use man-made
materials, stick to a good
grade of multi-ply plywood
like Baltic Birch. That usually
comes in 5’ x 5’ sheets. The
plain old softwood plywood
sold in 4’ x 8’ sizes has too few
plys and too many interior
voids to make for anything
approaching a perfect drawer.
Hardwood plywood is usually
much better and can be used
with some success.
Don’t try to use chip board or
compressed board as they
generally are too weak to work
well.
MDF can be used but know
that the male fan shapes can be
quite fragile until the piece is
assembled and glued up.
Once assembled with a good
quality wood glue, MDF
makes for a strong drawer, box
or cabinet carcass. Without
glue the joints in MDF are
simply too weak to be useful.
Half blind dovetail joints cut in
solid wood are strong with or
without glue.
To prep solid wood you
almost must have a jointer
and a planer.
Seldom is the wood you buy
pre-surfaced really straight,
flat or of equal thickness over
its length. It may look that
way in the store but often will
have some cupping, twist,
warp or curve.
You can see it if you look at
the end of the board to see if it
is flat side to side or whether it
bows across its width
somewhere along the length.
That bow up or down is called
“cupping.” The board often
also will have some twist. This
is where the flat face of the
board is not parallel along its
entire length. Or, it may be
warped enough that
individual components are not
flat over their length.
The only way to effectively
take out cupping, twist or
warp is with a jointer. If you
run a warped, twisted or
cupped board through a
planer, the pinch rollers will
temporarily flatten the board
right under the planner knives.
The warp, cup or twist will
reappear again as it exits,
leaving you with a warped,
cupped or twisted board that
is simply thinner.
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