Crane PROSSER STANDARD-LINE 9-81000 Series, Installation And Operation Manual

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not, replace stator.
WARNING ! - Always wear appropriate clothing
and safety gear when working with or around
oven.
If low stator insulation resistance is due to other modes of
failure, such as damaged leads, deformed end turns, etc,
the stator should be replaced. Another test of the electrical
integrity of the stator is the measurement of winding
resistance with an ohmmeter. Such measurement is made
between the leads of the stator. If the resistance of the stator
winding is greater than listed on page 10, the stator should be
replaced.
F-2) Lubrication:
F-2.1) Checking Oil:
To check oil, remove pipe plug (42) from diffuser (9). With a
flashlight, visually inspect the oil in the seal cavity to make
sure it is clean and clear, light amber in color and free from
suspended particles. Milky white oil indicates the presence of
water. If the the oil looks milky white, pour the oil out of the oil
chamber and let it settle in a clean, dry container. If any water
settles out in the bottom of the container or if the oil is white and
thick (emulsified) replace rotary shaft seals (See Section F-4)
and oil.
You can also check oil for contamination by using an oil tester
with a range to 30 Kilovolts breakdown. If oil is found to be clean
and uncontaminated (measure at or above 15 KV. breakdown),
refill the seal cavity. If oil is found to be dirty or contaminated (or
measures below 15 KV. breakdown), replace rotary seals and
oil.
TABLE 1 - SEAL CHAMBER OIL
SUPPLIER GRADE
Gulf (334206) Harmony 68
Texaco URSA P-68
F-2.2) Replacing Oil:
Remove pipe plug (42) from diffuser (9), and drain oil from seal
chamber and dispose of properly. Flush inside seal chamber
of diffuser (9) thoroughly to be sure it is clean and free of
abrasives. Refill oil chamber for 10 & 15 HP pumps with 25 oz
(740 ml), and 32 oz (950ml) for 25-50HP, or about half full, of a
20W non-detergent turbine oil with rust and oxidation inhibitors.
After replacing oil, replace pipe plug (42) using a sealant.
F-2.3) Seal Cavity Pressure Test:
Remove pipe plug (42) from diffuser (9) and check that the seal
chamber is of the correct amount of oil (See Figure 6). Apply
pipe sealant to pressure gauge assembly and tighten into hole
in Intermediate diffuser (9). Pressurize seal chamber to 12
P.S.I. and check for leaks. If after five minutes, the pressure is
still holding constant, and no leaks are observed, slowly bleed
the pressure and remove the gauge assembly. Replace the
pipe plug (42) using a sealant. If the pressure does not hold,
then the leak must be located and repaired.
CAUTION ! - Always wear eye protection when
working on pumps.
CAUTION ! - Pressure builds up extremely fast,
increase pressure by “TAPPING” air nozzle. Too
much pressure will damage seal. DO NOT exceed
12 P.S.I.
F-3) Impeller Service:
F-3.1) Disassembly:
To inspect or replace impeller (3) and impeller o-ring (43, on
10-15HP only), remove screws (40), washers (65) and remove
strainer (24). Remove strainer bolts (66), cap screws (32),
and washers (30, on 10-15HP) (49, on 25-50HP) then remove
suction case (4). Check the suction case (4) lining for wear, cuts,
or defects and replace if necessary. Now remove locknut (16)
and washer (27, on 10-15HP), or bushing (72, on 25-50HP) from
shaft. The impeller (3) should slip off the shaft, if not, remove
the o-ring (43, on 10-15HP) from the impeller groove and use
a bearing puller. Inspect the impeller for wear or damage, also
check shims (17a) & (17b) and replace if necessary. NOTE:
Seal spring relaxes when impeller is removed and may cause
oil to leak through.
F-3.2) Reassembly:
To reassemble, slide inner shims (17a) & (17b) onto shaft,
then apply an anti-seize compound on the shaft area where
the impeller fits. Insert o-ring (43, on 10-15HP) into groove on
impeller (3) and slide the impeller (3) onto the shaft. Apply grease
to o-ring (63) and place on diffuser (9), slide the impeller (3) onto
the shaft, replace washer (27, on 10-15HP) or bushing (72, on
25-50HP), and locknut (16) onto shaft and tighten to; (10 & 15
HP, 37 ft lbs.) (25 & 50HP, 103 ft. lbs) Replace suction case (4)
onto diffuser (9), lining up holes and inserting cap screws (32)
with washers (30, on 10-15HP) or (49, on 25-50HP), tightening
to 15 Ft. lbs.(on 10-15HP) or 26 Ft. Lbs. (on 25-50HP).
Insert strainer bolts (66) with washers (30, on 10-15HP) or (49,
on 25-50HP), into remaining holes in suction case (4). After
assembly, check that the impeller rotates smoothly, but with a
slight drag due to bearing and rotary seal friction. If the impeller
turns roughly, the bearings should be replaced (See Section
F-6), If impeller hangs up or is hard to turn, the gap between
the impeller and suction case should be checked. To check the
gap, a feeler gauge should be used. Check the gap between
the suction case liner and the impeller vanes as shown in Figure
7. Determine the proper gap setting from Table 2 and adjust by
FIGURE 6