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Copyright © 2005  -  ASR Electronics. All rights reserved. 

Getting on with it: 

 
OK, enough of the preamble - Let’s make a start. 
 
The very first thing to be done is to remove the head unit. Grab your “special extraction tools” and head out 
to the car. Insert the wires into the holes on either side of the front panel making sure the notches face 
toward each other. Push them in all the way until you hear a distinct “click” and all four of the wires are 
pushed in as far as they can go. If you use wires without the notches filed out, apply some outward 
pressure to the “handles” (away from each other) and pull backwards. If it’s the first time the head unit has 
been removed it can be really difficult – you need to be pretty firm, some would say even brutal, but it will 
come out. If the wires tend to be pulling out of the unit, grab the file and spend five minutes on filing the 
notches in the wires. My wires work every time, in a few seconds – literally. 
 

 

 

 
With the head unit removed, I recommend taking it straight to the bench for stripdown and attaching the 
auxiliary socket. In this way the epoxy can be getting on with curing whilst you get on with trim and cradle 
removal and the metalwork modification. 
  
To begin stripping the head unit, remove the four T-8 screws from the sides along the edge of the plastic 
moulding (2 each side) which anchor the facia to the chassis. Pull the facia panel away from the main body 
slightly, but not too far. Once enough clearance is obtained, reach between the facia and the main body and 
unplug the connector near the bottom right. 

This can be tight – avoid excessive side-to-side “wriggling” or 

solder joints may be fractured.

 

 

 

 

 

Summary of Contents for VY-VZ

Page 1: ...out cable assembly terminated with gold RCA sockets and a bullet connector a guide template to assist with the positioning of the slot which is to be cut into the cradle metalwork some various intern...

Page 2: ...cradle metalwork following the cutting of the slot A larger file can be used provided adequate care is taken an ice cream stick with emery paper is a good substitute A Dremel style rotary tool It doe...

Page 3: ...tches the wires just tend to pull out of the unit rather than pulling the unit out of the cradle The clips in the head unit which are pushed aside by these wires have a small tang pressed into them an...

Page 4: ...would say even brutal but it will come out If the wires tend to be pulling out of the unit grab the file and spend five minutes on filing the notches in the wires My wires work every time in a few se...

Page 5: ...et lock must be disengaged before completely separating the two halves of the main unit The procedure for this will be outlined shortly Along each side of the main assembly there are two T 10 screws f...

Page 6: ...e and preferably give the surface a wipe with some solvent such as acetone or lacquer thinner Don t go crazy with the solvent though you might start dissolving the connector body Just a slightly moist...

Page 7: ...iminary work can take place and the adhesive allowed to cure without too much impact on the total job time Now we can get back to the car and begin removing the necessary trim panels and extract the c...

Page 8: ...edge with your fingers use a stubby flat blade screwdriver or similar Be careful not to scratch or mar the plastic panel Once the clips at the front are released then pull back to release the clips at...

Page 9: ...be straightened easily anyway Again this is another of those situations where you mustn t pull too far because you need to release the tabs which retain the connector sockets Once you have the cradle...

Page 10: ...le You need to slide the passenger seat all the way back and it s still hard to get to With these screws removed the lower panel should now lift away At this point grab a cup of tea or coffee and have...

Page 11: ...move it In really stubborn cases where the via won t clean out use a pointed toothpick heat until the solder melts and poke the toothpick through from the other side Once the solder solidifies again p...

Page 12: ...for me but feel free to use whichever you like It is recommended though is to route the signals the way I have ie channel numbering 1 to 4 In this way the colour coding scheme I have used helps preven...

Page 13: ...oard has a small additional daughterboard to perform the power switching Look at the photos below for a view of the completed installation in each case Again pairs of colour coded wires are supplied f...

Page 14: ...the standoffs to the base unit PCB in readiness to mount the input board Don t mount it yet though you need to solder the connections Cut the wires to length allowing a little slack strip about 4mm o...

Page 15: ...quare panel behind the window switches In this case a template has been included with the kit to use as a guide for drilling the holes Another much more invisible location is the small corrugated pane...

Page 16: ...hen pushing the pin into the receptacle avoid using a sharp metal tool such as a jeweller s screwdriver as this can weaken the wire at the connection point and it may break I use a wooden toothpick it...

Page 17: ...to the connector When it s seated correctly slide the lock tabs to the locked position and make sure both ends of the locking tab are in place Replace the side screws and return the bottom cover plate...

Page 18: ...the output cables through the back and run them behind the existing harness connectors As you begin sliding the cradle in gently pull the lead out cables from behind below so that they don t fold back...

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