Page 15
Copyright © 2005 - ASR Electronics. All rights reserved.
We also need to mount the 3.5mm socket and activation switch somewhere. You’ll notice that these items
attach to a short length of cable with a 5 pin connector – this has been done such that the trim item where
the socket and switch are mounted can be removed from the car without being tied to the Aux In cable
attached to the back of the cradle. The socket has been soldered to the cable, but due to the switch having
to mount through the panel, these connections must be soldered after mounting. This switch may also be
substituted with an alternative switch (Holden sell a “Lighting Blackout” switch which is suitable), but
whichever switch is chosen it must be an “alternate action” type, not “momentary contact”. (in other words,
the switch must toggle between button presses – press once to make contact, press again to break.) Also,
the included switch has a LED inside to indicate when the Aux input is active – if you choose to use an
alternative, you might also wish to consider an alternative indication LED mounted somewhere.
Locations for switch/socket mounting – Some will choose to use the small square panel behind the window
switches. In this case, a template has been included with the kit to use as a guide for drilling the holes.
Another much more invisible location is the small “corrugated” panel inside the console storage bin. In some
models a lamp is fitted here to illuminate this space, but if not it’s a perfect location. You’ll have to be careful
with the cable routing though, as this location is at about the full length of the cable. The photos below show
the socket and switch mounted in this way, with a detail shot of the soldered connections.
Once the location is chosen, use the template if desired to align the position of the holes. Drill the hole for
the socket to 6mm, and the switch hole to 16mm. (if using the switch provided) From behind the panel
chosen, there is also a need to countersink the 6mm socket hole, as the barrel may not protrude far enough
to fasten the nut.
Mount the socket and switch, then solder the black
wire on the switch (this is the wire that’s soldered to
two terminals on the switch – the LED cathode, and
one contact) to the socket ground connection where
the shield of the cable is soldered. Now solder the
yellow wire from the cable to the LED Anode (the
switch terminal marked “+”), and the black wire from
the cable to the other switch contact. This panel can
now be re-fitted in preparation for the final hook-up.
