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Page 14 

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straighten the lead before removing the component from the board. Solder the white hookup wire to C1529 
“+”, and the grey wire to C1529 “-”. The red hookup wire goes to C1528 “+”, and the orange to C1528 “-”. 
 
If the installation is input only, you’ll also need to connect the Co12V and the Standby wire. The 
photo below left shows these wires attached to the base unit PCB. 
 

(note that a brown coloured wire has been used for the standby signal for the standalone input mod, 
whereas purple wires have been used for the output buffer standby connection) 

 
There must also be a connection made for the telephone MUTE signal, solder the blue wire from the Aux 
PCB to the point indicated in the photo below right. (Refer to Appendix B for Premium systems) Be very 
careful when soldering this connection – this is the only one which can’t be picked up at a via, so there’s no 
hole to poke the wire through. It must be soldered directly to the surface mounted link and if too much heat 
is applied you can lift the component completely off the board, or if the bared end of the wire is too long it 
could cause a short.  
 

 

 

 
Now after determining where the board will be mounted, hot-melt glue the standoffs to the base unit PCB in 
readiness to mount the input board. Don’t mount it yet though, you need to solder the connections! Cut the 
wires to length allowing a little slack, strip about 4mm of insulation from each, twist and tin the strands, then 
solder them to the appropriate points on the input board. There’s the signal wire pairs, the +12V and 
Ground wires, and the standby signal if stand-alone. To attach the ground, tin the “tab” part of the shield 
around the main connector where it’s soldered to the PCB. Also strip and tin the end of the ground wire, 
then “sweat solder” the tinned end to the tinned shield. Cut the excess wire off, and hot-melt the board to 
the standoffs. 
 

Note: If you’re powering the input board from the buffer board, the +12SB connection on the buffer 
is the one used for the +12V supply to the input board. 

 
 
 
The antenna inhibit must also be applied (for 
vehicles which have an external antenna for the 
radio) by lifting one leg of the thermistor R2042 
(the small blue disc-like thing near the +12V 
connection) and soldering the Ant Inhibit wires to 
these points – one to the base PCB, and the other 
to the thermistor lead. Slide the small piece of 
heatshrink over the wire before soldering to the 
thermistor lead so it can be insulated when the 
connection is complete. (the antenna inhibit wiring 
in the photo is the grey coloured miniature figure-8 
wire, the kit may have black mini fig-8 supplied) 
 
 

 

Summary of Contents for VY-VZ

Page 1: ...out cable assembly terminated with gold RCA sockets and a bullet connector a guide template to assist with the positioning of the slot which is to be cut into the cradle metalwork some various intern...

Page 2: ...cradle metalwork following the cutting of the slot A larger file can be used provided adequate care is taken an ice cream stick with emery paper is a good substitute A Dremel style rotary tool It doe...

Page 3: ...tches the wires just tend to pull out of the unit rather than pulling the unit out of the cradle The clips in the head unit which are pushed aside by these wires have a small tang pressed into them an...

Page 4: ...would say even brutal but it will come out If the wires tend to be pulling out of the unit grab the file and spend five minutes on filing the notches in the wires My wires work every time in a few se...

Page 5: ...et lock must be disengaged before completely separating the two halves of the main unit The procedure for this will be outlined shortly Along each side of the main assembly there are two T 10 screws f...

Page 6: ...e and preferably give the surface a wipe with some solvent such as acetone or lacquer thinner Don t go crazy with the solvent though you might start dissolving the connector body Just a slightly moist...

Page 7: ...iminary work can take place and the adhesive allowed to cure without too much impact on the total job time Now we can get back to the car and begin removing the necessary trim panels and extract the c...

Page 8: ...edge with your fingers use a stubby flat blade screwdriver or similar Be careful not to scratch or mar the plastic panel Once the clips at the front are released then pull back to release the clips at...

Page 9: ...be straightened easily anyway Again this is another of those situations where you mustn t pull too far because you need to release the tabs which retain the connector sockets Once you have the cradle...

Page 10: ...le You need to slide the passenger seat all the way back and it s still hard to get to With these screws removed the lower panel should now lift away At this point grab a cup of tea or coffee and have...

Page 11: ...move it In really stubborn cases where the via won t clean out use a pointed toothpick heat until the solder melts and poke the toothpick through from the other side Once the solder solidifies again p...

Page 12: ...for me but feel free to use whichever you like It is recommended though is to route the signals the way I have ie channel numbering 1 to 4 In this way the colour coding scheme I have used helps preven...

Page 13: ...oard has a small additional daughterboard to perform the power switching Look at the photos below for a view of the completed installation in each case Again pairs of colour coded wires are supplied f...

Page 14: ...the standoffs to the base unit PCB in readiness to mount the input board Don t mount it yet though you need to solder the connections Cut the wires to length allowing a little slack strip about 4mm o...

Page 15: ...quare panel behind the window switches In this case a template has been included with the kit to use as a guide for drilling the holes Another much more invisible location is the small corrugated pane...

Page 16: ...hen pushing the pin into the receptacle avoid using a sharp metal tool such as a jeweller s screwdriver as this can weaken the wire at the connection point and it may break I use a wooden toothpick it...

Page 17: ...to the connector When it s seated correctly slide the lock tabs to the locked position and make sure both ends of the locking tab are in place Replace the side screws and return the bottom cover plate...

Page 18: ...the output cables through the back and run them behind the existing harness connectors As you begin sliding the cradle in gently pull the lead out cables from behind below so that they don t fold back...

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