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Copyright © 2005  -  ASR Electronics. All rights reserved. 

The method I’ve found easiest for the connection of the input wires is as follows.  
 
Strip and dress one end of the hookup wires (ie. twist the strands together) and I recommend lightly tinning 
these wires so the strands don’t fray out. Insert these ends through the corresponding vias and solder them 
into the base PCB. Work carefully, in some cases there are some other components in close proximity to 
these connections. Don’t install a fault while you’re at it! Inspect these joints carefully and clip off the excess 
wire. If the Input board is to be installed as well, solder one of the red power wires to the +12SB point on the 
buffer board. (this provides switched power to the Aux In board) 
 

Note: If you’re installing BOTH PCBs, attach the wires for the Aux In board as well (description 
further on). If the buffer board is mounted in place first, you can’t get to the points on the base unit 
PCB to make the required connections. 

 

 
In this photo the buffer input wires have been attached 
to the relevant points, the “standby signal” wire (this 
triggers the remote power output signal), and the red 
and black wires connected to the +12v and ground 
points. (note the ground connection point – this is as 
good as any) Also note that the standoffs have been 
attached to the base PCB with hot-melt glue. 
 

Notes: Ignore the blue coloured connector shown in 
this photo, this is again an earlier revision. Also, 
Premium sound system owners, please refer to 
appendix B for locations of wiring connections and 
standoffs.  

 
 

 
The wiring colour convention I use is as follows. It works for me, but feel free to use whichever you like. It is 
recommended though is to route the signals the way I have – ie, channel numbering 1 to 4. In this way the 
colour coding scheme I have used helps prevent unexpected balance/fader operation. The routing I used 
is… 

(NOTE: Colours shown in parentheses are for alternate output cable) 

 
Channel 1 (Rear LEFT)   

-   GREY input wire 

BLACK (green) output wire  

Channel 2 (Front LEFT)  

-   WHITE input wire 

WHITE (blue)output wire 

Channel 3 (Front RIGHT) 

-   RED input wire 

RED (red) output wire 

Channel 4 (Rear RIGHT) 

-   ORANGE input wire  - 

YELLOW (yellow) output wire 

 

(Note: The RED wire referred to above is the red signal wire, not the slightly thicker one supplied for the 
+12V connection) 

 
Now rest the buffer board on the standoffs, and cut the wires to length. Don’t forget to allow a little extra, as 
you need to manipulate the board a little after the connections are completed. DON’T cut them too short! 
Strip about 4mm of insulation from each one, and again twist the strands and tin them.  
 
Firstly connect the input wires 1-2-3-4 to the buffer board inputs, followed by the standby input. Insert the 
dressed end through the hole in the PCB and solder it to the associated pad. After the input wires, connect 
the red +12V wire, and lastly the black ground wire. To attach the ground, tin the “tab” part of the shield 
around the main connector where it’s soldered to the PCB. Also strip and tin the end of the ground wire, 
then “sweat solder” the tinned end to the tinned shield.  
 
Don’t forget to clip the excess wires from the PCBs at BOTH ends once soldering is completed. (at the 
base-board end, these wires could short to ground or to each other potentially causing significant damage) 
If the Aux In board is to be installed in conjunction, also attach the +12SB wire. Make sure the off-cuts don’t 
fall into the unit! 
 
  

Summary of Contents for VY-VZ

Page 1: ...out cable assembly terminated with gold RCA sockets and a bullet connector a guide template to assist with the positioning of the slot which is to be cut into the cradle metalwork some various intern...

Page 2: ...cradle metalwork following the cutting of the slot A larger file can be used provided adequate care is taken an ice cream stick with emery paper is a good substitute A Dremel style rotary tool It doe...

Page 3: ...tches the wires just tend to pull out of the unit rather than pulling the unit out of the cradle The clips in the head unit which are pushed aside by these wires have a small tang pressed into them an...

Page 4: ...would say even brutal but it will come out If the wires tend to be pulling out of the unit grab the file and spend five minutes on filing the notches in the wires My wires work every time in a few se...

Page 5: ...et lock must be disengaged before completely separating the two halves of the main unit The procedure for this will be outlined shortly Along each side of the main assembly there are two T 10 screws f...

Page 6: ...e and preferably give the surface a wipe with some solvent such as acetone or lacquer thinner Don t go crazy with the solvent though you might start dissolving the connector body Just a slightly moist...

Page 7: ...iminary work can take place and the adhesive allowed to cure without too much impact on the total job time Now we can get back to the car and begin removing the necessary trim panels and extract the c...

Page 8: ...edge with your fingers use a stubby flat blade screwdriver or similar Be careful not to scratch or mar the plastic panel Once the clips at the front are released then pull back to release the clips at...

Page 9: ...be straightened easily anyway Again this is another of those situations where you mustn t pull too far because you need to release the tabs which retain the connector sockets Once you have the cradle...

Page 10: ...le You need to slide the passenger seat all the way back and it s still hard to get to With these screws removed the lower panel should now lift away At this point grab a cup of tea or coffee and have...

Page 11: ...move it In really stubborn cases where the via won t clean out use a pointed toothpick heat until the solder melts and poke the toothpick through from the other side Once the solder solidifies again p...

Page 12: ...for me but feel free to use whichever you like It is recommended though is to route the signals the way I have ie channel numbering 1 to 4 In this way the colour coding scheme I have used helps preven...

Page 13: ...oard has a small additional daughterboard to perform the power switching Look at the photos below for a view of the completed installation in each case Again pairs of colour coded wires are supplied f...

Page 14: ...the standoffs to the base unit PCB in readiness to mount the input board Don t mount it yet though you need to solder the connections Cut the wires to length allowing a little slack strip about 4mm o...

Page 15: ...quare panel behind the window switches In this case a template has been included with the kit to use as a guide for drilling the holes Another much more invisible location is the small corrugated pane...

Page 16: ...hen pushing the pin into the receptacle avoid using a sharp metal tool such as a jeweller s screwdriver as this can weaken the wire at the connection point and it may break I use a wooden toothpick it...

Page 17: ...to the connector When it s seated correctly slide the lock tabs to the locked position and make sure both ends of the locking tab are in place Replace the side screws and return the bottom cover plate...

Page 18: ...the output cables through the back and run them behind the existing harness connectors As you begin sliding the cradle in gently pull the lead out cables from behind below so that they don t fold back...

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