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Page 10 

Copyright © 2005  -  ASR Electronics. All rights reserved. 

 
 
 
 
Now is a perfect time to cut off the “ears” on the top 
of the harness connector. They seem to serve no 
useful purpose, and in fact get in the way of the pin 
assembly you’re going to mount there. Cut them off 
flush with the top of the connector with sidecutters or 
a trimmer knife – 

carefully

 
 
 
 
 

 
However, we’re not quite finished with trim panels yet. The console lower side panel on the left side must be 
removed to allow routing of the lead-out cables, and to allow re-fitting of the connector sockets once the 
cradle is refitted to the car. (it’s a lot easier to press them back into position from behind the assembly) 
Firstly though the glovebox must be removed. Don’t worry, it’s not as hard as it sounds. 
 

(Note: Left hand drive cars will not require glovebox removal, but you may have to remove the flip-down 
panel below the steering column.) 

 
First empty it out, then lift the glovebox slightly off the bottom stops. On each side you can see the rubber 
wedge shaped stoppers – ease the bottom edge of these towards the inside of the glovebox, and slide them 
downwards to remove them. Now allow the glovebox to drop all the way down, then grasp the top edge and 
pull it towards you – it should pop out of the hinge clips at the back on each side. 
 
Now remove the two screws retaining the front mounting flange on the lower console panel, and the single 
screw about halfway along the bottom edge of the console. You need to slide the passenger seat all the 
way back, and it’s still hard to get to. With these screws removed the lower panel should now lift away. 
 
At this point, grab a cup of tea or coffee and have a break – you’ve done well! 
 
While you’re having a breather, check on the progress of the epoxy. With any luck it will have started to gel 
off now. It might still be sticky, but should be starting to firm up. Now leave it alone again. 
 
OK, we can start working on the cradle. Take the printed template and peel back the release sheet from the 
bottom but only 10-15mm. Fold the release sheet back against itself and crease it down firmly. Now line up 
the cutout in the template with the top cutout in the back of the cradle and press down the template where 
the release sheet has been removed. When this is nicely stuck down, peel the release sheet the rest of the 
way off and rub the template down firmly. (support the inside rear panel of the cradle when you do this, or 
it’ll bend) 

 
The rounded rectangular area printed on the 
template is the metal we need to remove. Begin by 
gently centre punching the crosshairs at each end of 
the slot and pilot drill these with a 2.5-3mm bit, then 
run through with a 5mm bit. Again, support the 
cradle from the inside whist doing this. 
 
Use a rotary cutting tool, and remove the strip of 
steel in between the lines. Try not to cut outside the 
lines, we don’t want to remove any more metal than 
we need to. Now the template can be removed and 
the edges of the slot cleaned up with some needle 
files. Make sure any flash from the cutting and 
drilling operations is removed - should it become 
dislodged later it could cause shorts. 

Summary of Contents for VY-VZ

Page 1: ...out cable assembly terminated with gold RCA sockets and a bullet connector a guide template to assist with the positioning of the slot which is to be cut into the cradle metalwork some various intern...

Page 2: ...cradle metalwork following the cutting of the slot A larger file can be used provided adequate care is taken an ice cream stick with emery paper is a good substitute A Dremel style rotary tool It doe...

Page 3: ...tches the wires just tend to pull out of the unit rather than pulling the unit out of the cradle The clips in the head unit which are pushed aside by these wires have a small tang pressed into them an...

Page 4: ...would say even brutal but it will come out If the wires tend to be pulling out of the unit grab the file and spend five minutes on filing the notches in the wires My wires work every time in a few se...

Page 5: ...et lock must be disengaged before completely separating the two halves of the main unit The procedure for this will be outlined shortly Along each side of the main assembly there are two T 10 screws f...

Page 6: ...e and preferably give the surface a wipe with some solvent such as acetone or lacquer thinner Don t go crazy with the solvent though you might start dissolving the connector body Just a slightly moist...

Page 7: ...iminary work can take place and the adhesive allowed to cure without too much impact on the total job time Now we can get back to the car and begin removing the necessary trim panels and extract the c...

Page 8: ...edge with your fingers use a stubby flat blade screwdriver or similar Be careful not to scratch or mar the plastic panel Once the clips at the front are released then pull back to release the clips at...

Page 9: ...be straightened easily anyway Again this is another of those situations where you mustn t pull too far because you need to release the tabs which retain the connector sockets Once you have the cradle...

Page 10: ...le You need to slide the passenger seat all the way back and it s still hard to get to With these screws removed the lower panel should now lift away At this point grab a cup of tea or coffee and have...

Page 11: ...move it In really stubborn cases where the via won t clean out use a pointed toothpick heat until the solder melts and poke the toothpick through from the other side Once the solder solidifies again p...

Page 12: ...for me but feel free to use whichever you like It is recommended though is to route the signals the way I have ie channel numbering 1 to 4 In this way the colour coding scheme I have used helps preven...

Page 13: ...oard has a small additional daughterboard to perform the power switching Look at the photos below for a view of the completed installation in each case Again pairs of colour coded wires are supplied f...

Page 14: ...the standoffs to the base unit PCB in readiness to mount the input board Don t mount it yet though you need to solder the connections Cut the wires to length allowing a little slack strip about 4mm o...

Page 15: ...quare panel behind the window switches In this case a template has been included with the kit to use as a guide for drilling the holes Another much more invisible location is the small corrugated pane...

Page 16: ...hen pushing the pin into the receptacle avoid using a sharp metal tool such as a jeweller s screwdriver as this can weaken the wire at the connection point and it may break I use a wooden toothpick it...

Page 17: ...to the connector When it s seated correctly slide the lock tabs to the locked position and make sure both ends of the locking tab are in place Replace the side screws and return the bottom cover plate...

Page 18: ...the output cables through the back and run them behind the existing harness connectors As you begin sliding the cradle in gently pull the lead out cables from behind below so that they don t fold back...

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