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2.
When car is thoroughly warmed up, shut off the fire a moment and let the pumps force a little extra water
into the generator. Stop engine.
3.
Disconnect union on suction hose, which connects the tank with the pumps, and allow water to run from
water tank. Disconnect union on the main water line at the hand water pump.
4.
Remove plug from bottom of flow motor or in the later models, where there is no plug, disconnect line to the
thermostat by loosening union where it enters side of flow motor. Run engine a moment to give the pumps a
chance to force all water out of water line.
5.
With engine running slowly, turn on independent fuel valve, allowing steam pressure to rise almost to the
blowing-off point.
6.
With fuel valve still open, and while engine is running slowly, open blow-off valve on the left side of the car
(commonly known as the water end blow-off). Just previous to opening this valve, partly open the steam
blow-off valve.
7.
While the steam pressure is dropping, and the engine is dying for lack of pressure, pump oil into the cylinder
rapidly (a pint will not be too much). The internal heat cylinders will vaporize the oil, causing it to penetrate
all nooks and corners, spreading a film over all the parts and insuring against rust. Open valve under
footboard and pump the water regulator lines full of oil until it drips from the steam blow-off. Give the hand
pump two or three strokes to force water from the line, between hand pump and water blow-off. On cars
having water heater, loosen unions at inlet and outlet, allowing any water contained therein to run out.
Loosen all check caps and see that check balls trap no water. On later models, where the water regulator is in
a position with the discharge pipe opening upward, the regulator should be removed and water allowed to run
out.
If these instructions are followed, the heat retained in the generator, the piping and the cylinders will
evaporate any small amount of water left, leaving the car perfectly dry and absolutely free from danger occasioned by
low temperature.
These instructions also hold good for cars with the old regulation, by leaving out any mention of the flow
motor or the feed water heater. If the car is to be laid up for some months and the packing in the pumps has seen long
service, it would be advisable to remove same to prevent corrosion of the pump plungers. If the proper amount of oil
has been pumped into the engine, there is little danger of any corrosion of the valve stems and piston rods, but it
would do no harm to remove packing from their stuffing boxes. Some owners, of careful engineering experience,
believe in removing cylinder heads and steam chest cover and smearing all surfaces with a liberal coating of Vaseline.
Be certain that no water is allowed to remain in the crankcase. To clean same thoroughly, drain out old oil
before steam is blown off. Put in half a gallon of kerosene and run engine a few minutes. Drain this thoroughly and
put in fresh oil. Then proceed as in item No. 2. This fresh oil can be allowed to remain. The same thing can be
followed out on the rear axle gear case.