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When first startling a cold engine it is advisable to give the hand oil pump a few strokes. The feed pipe may
have become partly empty, and as the automatic pump feeds very slowly, the engine would run some time before the
oil reached the cylinders.
On the scale of importance, the second place for lubrication is given to the engine crankcase. A quantity of
oil is contained therein, lubricating the revolving parts of the crankshaft by means of the splash principle. The
importance attached to the lubrication crankshaft bearings is due to 2 things. First, the amount of power transmitted
from the cylinders to the propeller shaft. Second, the small space within which the mechanism is enclosed. Work
produces friction and the more compact the machinery doing the work is the greater becomes one importance of good
lubrication. A good crank case oil should not be too thin, but should have body enough to lubricate well under a
heavy load and still flow through the ball races. It should have good wearing qualities and not change to a thick jelly-
like form under the beating due to the revolving parts. It is very important that it be free from acid. Corrosive action
due to the latter is very injurious to ball bearings, as it pits the balls and ball races.
The crank case oil should be changed before it is "worn out". The periods of changing, of course, depend
upon the amount of use of the car and the severity of the work it is doing. At least once a month the crankcase should
be drenched out with kerosene, which can be accomplished by putting in 2 quarts after draining out oil and running
the engine a few moments. This loosens and washes out all sediment and dirt, which may have accumulated, leaving
everything clean for the fresh oil. When the car is in use 2 extra quarts of oil each week poured directly into the
crankcase will insure against a deficit. The automatic oiler on the dash has one lead to the crankcase, which is
constantly renewing the supply, but the extra amount will prove beneficial. Better too much than not enough.
On the later models, where the crankcase is made almost absolutely oil tight, the amount of renewal can be
less, but the oil should be entirely changed more often. On these models, where the pumps are enclosed in the
crankcase, it is well to guard against water getting into the oil, by keeping the packing glands tight. Water intensifies
the action of any acid, which might be contained in the oil. If one quart of pure lard oil is mixed with 3 quarts of the
crank case oil and this mixture is used, the lard oil will help protect the bearings from any corrosive effect of water
and acid by forming a film, which coats the balls and ball races. This hold good for all models, as there is a possibility
of water in the oil on the older models. On these it can work in through the crossheads, after having escaped through
the stuffing boxes in the form of steam, hence it is advisable to keep the piston and valve stem stuffing boxes tight.
The next item on the lubrication list is the rear axle. Not only does the rear axle transmit the power
developed by the engine, but it must also carry its share of the load. Furthermore it must stand the shocks and strains
produced by the inequalities of the road. For these reasons it stands in importance as to lubrication very close to the
cylinders and crankcase.
As the pressure on the lubricant between gear teeth is very great, we need an oil which has plenty of body.
Usually the same kind of oil used in the cylinders is found to give good results. Some advocate the use of light grease
or non-fluid oil. This may serve very well, when the climate is warm, but better results will be obtained in cold
weather by using the cylinder oil. A spoonful or two of flake graphite, sprinkled in the oil, will be of benefit. Do not
get much more than this amount, as the excess may choke the bearings and prevent the oil from getting into the ball
races.
The oil should be changed about every 1,000 to 1,500 miles, depending upon the work of the car. Drain out
and drench with kerosene. When refilling do not get the level above the level plug on side of gear casing, as an excess
amount will cause oil to overflow at axle ends, where centrifugal force will throw it on the brake drums and wheels.
The two outer bearings on the rear axle receive no lubrication from the oil in the gear case, but depend upon grease,
which is supplied through grease cups. These cups will be found just inside of the brake drums. They should be kept
well filled and should be screwed up a turn or two each day. Once a week an entire cupful should be forced into the
bearing. Any first-class hard oil will do for use in all grease cups. Graphite greases give excellent results.
The drive shaft is the connecting link between the engine and rear axle. It must transmit all the power and do
this at different angles, caused by the up and down motion of the body on the springs. To compensate for this motion,
a sliding joint and universal joints are provided. The work performed by these is very severe, and they should receive
careful attention as to lubrication.
The lubricant should be hard oil or graphite grease. The later models have grease cups provided on both slip
joints and universals. On the others the grease must be forced into the pins with a grease gun, which is provided with