20
SAWING SOLID WOOD
Use a fine-toothed handsaw. Start sawing from the front edge, and hold the saw
almost vertical. As soon as you have passed the edge, the sawing angle should
be reduced to 20–30°. Push during the downward saw movement only, so that
the surface does not split. You can also use an electric circular saw or jigsaw.
If you do so, saw with the intended top side downwards so that the saw teeth
cut towards the surface. Begin to saw at the front edge. Sawing holes for the
sink, hob, etc., is safest when a template is made first. Mark according to the
template with a soft pencil. Remember to mirror the template if you are marking
the back. Sockets must be positioned at least 100 mm from an edge or another
socket. Remember to give the wood 5 mm of room to expand against recessed
units. All new saw cuts must be correctly treated with oil.
2.1 PREPARATION
SAWING LAMINATE
Use a fine-toothed handsaw. Start sawing from the front edge, and hold the saw
almost vertical. As soon as you have passed the edge, the sawing angle should
be reduced to 20–30°. Push during the downward saw movement only, so that
the laminate surface does not split. You can also use an electric circular saw or
jigsaw. If you do so, saw with the laminate surface downwards so that the saw
teeth cut towards the laminate surface. Begin to saw at the front edge. Sawing
holes for the sink, hob, etc., is safest when a template is made first. Mark
according to the template with a soft pencil. Remember to mirror the template
if you are marking the back. First drill holes in all the corners using a drill with
a diameter of at least 12 mm. Corners must not be sharp, as this may lead to
cracking later. Then saw with an electric saw or with a fine-toothed handsaw as
described above. Sockets must be positioned at least 50 mm from an edge or
another socket.
Seal all bare particle board edges, as these are very sensitive to damp. As a
sealant, you can use damp-proof course or sealing lacquer. Remember also to
seal any holes for taps or other pipe transits.
2. Installing counter tops
ALWAYS CARRY ON ITS SIDE!
The reinforcing bar must be removed when the counter top
is standing on its side. The counter top should be positioned
on the frame, on its side if possible, and carefully placed in the
correct position.
Counter with undermount sink
When the sink and draining board are undermounted in the
counter, a recess may be required in the base cabinet frame to
make space for the sink and draining board.
Before installing the counter tops, measure the support bar for the wall cabinets. See 3.1 SUPPORT BAR FOR WALL CABINETS.
Also read through the manufacturer’s instructions 7.2 COUNTER TOPS in this brochure.
A recess may be required in the base cabinet frame to make room for the sink and
draining board. The recess should be at least 30 mm long and approx. 30 mm deep.
At the front edge, it is placed directly along the inside of the partition strip, and
at the back edge it is approx. 55 mm from the back edge of the cabinet. Always
check whether a recess is required for the sink in question, and whether the above
measurements are correct.
Top side up
Top side down