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erecting for any damage, missing or incorrect parts. If this should be the case
please contact your Universo dealer. You can check the contents against the
parts list (see Chapter G).

Before starting to erect the cabin you can treat the bare wood sections of your
log cabin all over with a wood stain or other wood preservative to give them
maximum protection. The grooves, tongues, crosscut ends and the corner joints
especially should be well protected against the inﬂ uence of the weather. The
proﬁ le sections must be dry before erecting.

Lay out the parts around the perimeter of the area where the cabin is to be
erected. Wall drawings in chapter H can be used to help you to see where best
to lay the parts.

STEP 3

Begin with a half log cabin proﬁ le section on both sides and with the log cabin
proﬁ le section with groove for the door at the front. Then build the log cabin all
round until you have 3 layers. Use the help block supplied to tap in the proﬁ le
sections so that they connect well with each other.

Tip:

The side windows can be placed either in the left-hand or right-hand walls. The
window and door at the front can also be interchanged.

STEP 4 (OPTIONAL)

If you are going to place a terrace a number of the proﬁ le sections must be
shortened. See the erection instructions for the terrace for the correct steps.

STEP 5 (OPTIONAL)

If you have ordered foundation joists from Universo (can be ordered as an op-
tion) these must be laid ﬁ rst. Saw the joists to size at a 45° angle and position
them under the proﬁ le sections with the bevelled side to the outside so that the
water can run oﬀ .

STEP 6

Then check that everything is square and level. To see if the proﬁ le sections are
square measure the two diagonals; these must be the same length.

STEP 7 (OPTIONAL)

Then lay the ﬂ oor joists with spacing of about 50-60 cm and distributed over the
full width of the log cabin. If you have used foundation joists you will have to
shorten the ﬂ oor joists. Then ﬁ x the ﬂ oor boards to the ﬂ oor joists using 2 nails
set slightly inclined at each ﬁ xing point (nails for the ﬂ oor are not supplied).

Note:

Fix the ﬂ oor boards leaving a space of at least 10 mm from the walls to allow
for expansion. The last ﬂ oor board must be sawn to size. Then ﬁ t the skirting
boards.

STEP 8

After the third tier has been erected the door can be slid into the framework
from above. The door is ﬁ xed in a frame so that it cannot be ﬁ tted after the
cabin has been constructed.

STEP 9

As soon as you have reached the right height as shown in the drawing the
window can be ﬁ tted. This cannot be done after the cabin has been constructed
because it is ﬁ xed in a frame. The correct height can be determined from the
drawings of the wall in chapter H.

STEP 10

When the walls are in position ﬁ t the 2 top gables (G) on the front and back
walls with the metal clamps facing inwards.

STEP 11

There will be a gap left between the door and the top gable after erecting the
cabin. This allows the top gable to drop suﬃ

ciently when the wood shrinks. The

gap is sealed by the ledges (F) on the inside and the outside.

STEP 12

Fit ventilation grids in two places in your log cabin to ensure good ventilation.
The grids (RO) should be positioned diagonally opposite to each other, with one
grid at the bottom and one at the top. Drill four holes diameter about 26 mm
where the grid is to be positioned before ﬁ tting it.

Note:

For the 19 mm model the ventilation grid is only a cover plate on the outside.
For the 28 and 44 mm models cover plates are ﬁ tted on both the inside and the
outside.

STEP 13

Fit the purlins (Y) as shown in the drawing. No screws or nails are needed for
this. After this check that the top gables are level.

STEP 14

Now ﬁ t the roof boards (Z) with the bevelled edge facing inwards. The ﬁ rst
board must be ﬁ tted at the front 5 mm in from the end of the purlins to allow
for the expansion joint. Fix the rooﬁ ng boards at each ﬁ xing point using 2 nails
(DR) set slightly inclined. The last board must be sawn to size, but must be 5 mm
in from the end of the purlins here also.

STEP 15 A: Roof felt

If your log cabin has been delivered with roof felt (Z1) the strips must be cut to
length. The length required is the length of part (Y). Then ﬁ x the felt using the
asphalt nails (AS) supplied. The bottom strip must project 7 cm over the roof
boards.

Wrap the roof felt around the roof boards and ﬁ x the roof frame (W) there. If a
gutter is to be placed the roof frame must be screwed to the narrow side of the
roof boards and the roof felt is simply left projecting over them.

STEP 15 B: Roof shingles

First ﬁ x the roof frames (W) using screws.
Then begin with the shingles at the bottom of the roof boarding. Lay the ﬁ rst
row of shingles reversed so that the grooves face upwards. The shingles must
project 3 cm over the roof frame. Nail the ﬁ rst row of shingles along the centre
line using the asphalt nails (AS). 4 asphalt nails are required per shingle.

Lay the 2nd and following rows of shingles normally with the grooves facing
downwards and nail them in place using 4 asphalt nails. The second row
must cover the ﬁ rst one completely but be oﬀ set so that the joints are not in
the same places. The 3rd row is laid oﬀ set relative to the 2nd row so that the
grooves are in the middle of the 2nd row. Cut oﬀ the shingles at the front and
back of the row along the roof board using a sharp knife. Use this excess to start
the next row. Cover the rest of the roof in the same way making sure that the
asphalt nails are always covered by the next row. The last rows on each half of
the roof must overlap the ridge.

Cut the ridge shingles from normal shingle pieces. Roof shingles are cut easiest
from the back. Cut a shingle into pieces at the grooves, but in such a way that
the sides are slightly bevelled. Fit these ridge pieces as if they were roof tiles,
that is overlapping each other. Nail then down using 2 asphalt nails at places
where the following piece will overlap.

Note:

When ﬁ tting during cold weather the roof shingles should be warmed with a
burner or cold glue (not supplied) applied under the tabs. Otherwise the shin-
gles will not be glued in place until warming by the sun takes place.

STEP 16

Now nail the gable frames (V) of the front and back walls to the purlins. Make
sure that the top of the gable frame is level with the top of the roof leather or of
the shingles. Then nail the cover frame (V1) to the gable frame.

STEP 17

Position the wind anchorage in the 4 corners of the log cabin at about 20 to 30
cm from the corners on the side walls using 4 link plates (H). Drill holes for the
locking bolts (SL). Keep to the following to make sure that the anchorage will be
in the correct place:

•  Fit the top bolt in the bottom board of the top gable.
•  The locking bolt at the bottom must be in the middle of the groove.
•  The underside of the anchorage must remain at least 2 cm free of the ﬂ oor.

Do not tighten up the bolt in the groove too much to allow movement in the
groove, so that the log cabin proﬁ le sections will not be prevented from shrink-
ing or expanding.

STEP 18

Depending on the model ﬁ nish the log cabin with:

• The ﬁ ttings supplied.
• Optional accessories.

STEP 19

We recommend that the log cabin is painted or stained for optimal protection.
See also the remarks about this in Chapter D.