.
60
a.
Temporarily pin the stabilizer and fin to
the fuselage while maintaining the
correct alignment of the fin and
stabilizer to the fuselage. Place the
5/8"x5/8"x6" balsa filler blocks on either
side of the fin. Mark the profile of
former F-8 on the front of both filler
blocks.
b.
Carve and sand each block to match the traced shape of F-8 and the tapered shape shown on the plans. Check the fit and
shape of both parts with the assembled fuselage, stabilizer and fin. Try for a smooth and even blend from F-8 to the aft
end of each block.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
Now is the time to cover the Hog-Bipe.
61.
If you are going to cover and paint your Hog-Bipe, you need to go to step 73 and complete the headrest and wheelpants in
steps 73a and 74b.
62
a.
Glue the stabilizer to the fuselage. This is the place where care and precision really pays off. If all the elements of an
airframe are not straight and true the completed airplane will never fly like it should.
b.
Glue the fin to the stabilizer and the fuselage. Before the glue sets make sure the fin is perpendicular to the stabilizer and
straight on the centerline of the fuselage. Don’t be shy, make sure the stabilzer and fin are well glued.
c.
Glue the two balsa filler blocks in place.
Control Surface Hinging
SIG EASY HINGES are probably the easiest-to-use hinges ever developed.
1.
Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit at the hinge location using a fresh, sharp #11 blade in your modeling knife.
This first slit should be very shallow so you can better control the direction of the knife. It’s main purpose is to establish
your hinge slot in the right place, so concentrate on staying on the hinge line and don’t try to cut too deep.
NOTE: Make the slit slightly wider than the actual hinge.
2.
Now make 3 or 4 more cuts in the exact same line, going slightly deeper each time. As you make these additional cuts,
concentrate on staying in the slit and keeping the blade headed straight into the center of the wood so that it won’t come
out the side of the part. You will find that as the blade gets deeper into the wood, it will become harder to move it along the
slot. Try "wiggling" the knife handle in the slot to make it cut, instead of trying to "slice" the blade along in one continuous
motion. Continue making additional cuts until the slot is approximately 1/2" deep.
CAUTION: You must use extreme care to avoid cutting yourself while cutting the hinge slots. If the balsa wood breaks
while you are pushing on the knife, the blade could go into your hand before you can stop it. A good precaution is to wear
a leather glove on the hand that is holding the model part while you are cutting the slots.
3.
After all the slots have been cut, insert a single Easy Hinge halfway into each hinge slot in the stabilizer. If the hinge is
difficult to push in, re-insert the knife and move it back and forth in the slot a few more times and then try again. DO NOT
GLUE THE HINGES IN AT THIS TIME!
4.
Now carefully slide the elevator onto the exposed half of the Easy Hinges. You will find it easiest to slide the part onto the
hinges at angle, one hinge at a time, instead of trying to push it straight onto all the hinges at once. Don’t be overly
concerned if the hinges don’t end up perfectly straight or centered in the slots - they do not have a center line.
ONCE AGAIN, DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES IN AT THIS TIME!
5.
To set the proper amount of gap between the model parts, simply deflect the control surface to the maximum amount of
travel needed. This will automatically set the proper hinge gap! Keep in mind that for best control response the gap should
be kept as small as possible, but big enough to allow full movement of the control surface.
