4
Fuel Tank for Glow Engine
❑
(1) Fuel Tank Body - 295cc (10 oz.)
❑
(1) Rubber Stopper
❑
(1) M3 x 34mm Bolt
❑
(1) Metal Clunk Pick-Up
❑
(3) Plastic Tube - 4mm od x 60mm
❑
(2) Zip-Ties
❑
(1) 5/16" x 3/4" x 3-3/16" Balsa Fuel Tank Retainer
Engine Mounts for Glow Engine
❑
(1) Right Nylon Engine Mount
❑
(1) Left Nylon Engine Mount
❑
(8) M4 x 25mm Mounting Bolts
❑
(8) M4 Flat Metal Washers
❑
(4) M4 Blind Nuts
❑
(4) M4 Nylon Insert Locking Nuts
Electric Power Accessories
❑
(1) Adjustable Wood Motor Box
❑
(1) Balsa Tri Stock Stick
❑
(2) Hook n Loop Straps
NOTE: “PWA Screws” are metal screws with a Phillips/washer
style head.
COVERING MATERIAL
Your RASCAL ARF is covered with ORACOVER®, a premium quality
covering made in Germany, and sold in the U.S. by Hanger-9 as
Ultracote®.
Colors Used On Your Airplane
ORACOVER® #10 White (Ultracote® #HANU870) and
ORACOVER® #29 Transparent Red (Ultracote® #HANU950) or
ORACOVER® #59 Transparent Blue (Ultracote® #HANU954)
If sometime in the future you need replacement covering or matching
paint for repairs, they are available from your local hobby dealer or
online from Hanger-9.
How to Tighten Loose Covering
After you open your RASCAL 80 and take all the covered parts out of
their plastic bags, the covering may begin to wrinkle. This is not
unusual and is no cause for alarm.
Your airplane was built and covered in a part of the world which has
relatively high humidity and therefore, the wood was likely carrying a
fair amount of moisture. When exposed to drier air, the wood typically
loses this moisture, dimensionally "shrinking" in the process. In turn,
this may cause some wrinkles. However, wrinkles are easy to remove
by just using a hobby type heat iron. Caution: Trying to remove the
wrinkles by hastily going over them with a heat gun can lead to more
problems. You should take your time to carefully go over the entire
model with a covering iron, as we will describe.
We suggest using a model airplane covering iron for this process. Cover
the iron's shoe with a thin cotton cloth, such as an old T-shirt, to
prevent scratching the covering as you work.
After covering your iron, the next step is to set the iron to the correct
temperature. This is critical for achieving a good result! The iron
should be set to about
220
O
F - 250
O
F (104
O
C - 121
O
C)
as measured on
the bottom of the iron using a thermometer.
If you do not have a thermometer, you can find the correct
temperature by trial and error. Set your iron to a medium setting. Glide
the iron over some of the covering that is over solid wood, such as the
sheeted wing center section. Observe the covering to see if any
bubbles appear. If bubbles appear, the covering is getting too hot!
Turn down the temperature of the iron and repeat the test.
If no bubbles appear, turn up the heat slightly and repeat the test. Keep
adjusting until you “zero in” on the correct temperature. Find the
temperature that will get the covering to stick down without forming
bubbles or causing the seams to pull away.
Once your iron is set to the correct temperature, go over the entire
framework of the airplane, making sure that the covering is securely
bonded to the structure everywhere the covering comes in contact
with the wood underneath. This takes some time, but is worth the
effort.
After you have all the covering secured onto the solid areas, turn the
temperature of the iron up to approximately
300
O
F - 320
O
F (149
O
C -
160
O
C)
. This is the correct temperature for shrinking the covering
material.
Use the iron to tighten up any wrinkles in the “open” areas of the model
(no wood underneath the covering). Glide the iron over the wrinkle for
a few seconds, then remove. Repeat until the covering is tight with no
wrinkles.
If wrinkles keep coming back on the tail surfaces, you may need to
“ventilate” the areas between the ribs. Otherwise the air that is sealed
in those relatively small areas will expand when the heat is applied and
actually cause the covering to stretch instead of shrink. Use a pin to
poke a tiny hole in the covering between each rib, on the bottom of the
part. That will let the expanding air escape and the covering to shrink
properly.
Caution When Using Heat Guns:
You can also use a hobby-type heat gun to shrink the covering, but
you must be careful around seams or color joints. Getting too much
heat on the seams may cause them to "creep" or come loose. You
must also be careful when using a heat gun when working around
the windshield and side windows – heat will distort the clear plastic
material.
Recommended Temperatures:
To adhere the covering - 220
O
F - 250
O
F (104
O
C - 121
O
C)
To shrink the covering - 300
O
F - 320
O
F (149
O
C - 160
O
C)
NOTE: In
this manual, any references to right or left, refer to your right or left
as if you were seated in the cockpit of the airplane.
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