
16
Option #1) Cut one or more cooling slots in the bottom of the cowl as
shown. A Dremel® Tool, or similar rotary hand-tool, with an
assortment of bits is without a doubt the best tool to use
for making cutout in the fiberglass cowling. However, if you
do not have access to such a tool, you can cut the opening
with a drill, a hobby knife, and a sanding block. First drill a
series of almost touching 1/8” holes inside the pattern lines;
then use the knife to cut through the connecting material
between each hole; and finally finish the edges of the
opening with the file or a sanding block.
Option #2) If you need more air flowing out of the fuselage, make an
additional air exit hole by removing the covering material
over the hole in the bottom of the fuselage, behind the
cabin.
The installation of your electric motor is now completed. Skip the
next section on glow power and proceed directly to Page 17, Step
48 about installing a “Receiver Battery Pack”.
GLOW POWER SYSTEM
Skip this section if you
’re using an electric power setup
The RASCAL 80 is a large airplane and is very adequately powered with
the 2-stroke or 4-stroke engine sizes suggested. The airplane does not
benefit from being over-powered. Doing this tends to put undue stress
on the airframe without any real gain in performance. This airplane
was always intended to "fly on the wing", not on excessive power.
The engine shown in these instructions is a typical .46 size 2-stroke
engine. The engine is mounted in the inverted position. The engine
installation for either 2-stroke or 4-stroke power plants is basically the
same. The main difference is often times the throttle arm location on
the carburetor. The materials provided in this kit should be useful for
almost any 2-stroke engine installation. Installation of a 4-stroke
engine may require some alterations and/or specialized fittings (not
supplied).
For this section you will need the Fuselage and:
(1) Fiberglass Cowling
(4) M3 x 10mm Screws
(2) Nylon Engine Mounts
(4) M4 x 20mm Mounting Bolts
(4) M4 Flat Metal Washers
(1) Fuel Tank
(1) Rubber Stopper Assembly
(1) Fuel Pick-Up Weight (clunk)
(1) Fuel Line Tubing for inside tank
(1) Nylon Throttle Pushrod Tube
(1) 17-3/4" long Wire Throttle Pushrod with Z-bend
(1) Metal Pushrod Keeper with Set Screw and Hex Nuts
(2) Zip-ties
You will also need to acquire these items (not supplied):
(1) R/C Engine and suitable Propeller
(4) Socket-Head Engine Mounting Bolts, to fit engine
(4) Lock Nuts for engine mounting bolts
(4) Flat Metal Washers for engine mounting bolts
(4) 6 in. lengths of Silicone Fuel Line Tubing
(1) Silicone Sealer (common kitchen & bath type)
❑
34) Start by putting the Fuel Tank together.
a)
Locate the Rubber Stopper Assembly. Note that there are
Three black nylon tubes going through the rubber stopper.
One of the tubes will be used for the Fuel Pickup Tube, which
will then connect to the engine carburetor.
Another tube will be used for the Tank Vent, which is most
often then connected to the pressure fitting on the muffler.
The third tube can be used for a separate Fill Line if you
desire, or it is capped off and the tank filling is done by
removing the fuel line at the carburetor and filling through
that line.
b)
Orient the stopper so that one of the tube s is towards the top
and then bend that tube up at a 45-degree angle. This tube
will be the tank vent line. Do not apply heat to the tube – it
will bend without heat. Just over-bend it to nearly 90-
degrees and then let it relax, to see where it will end up.
Repeat if necessary until the tube will stay at 45-degrees.
c)
Attach the metal Fuel Pick-Up Weight on one end of the silicone
Fuel Line Tubing that goes inside the tank. Cut the other end of
the fuel line tubing to a length that will allow the clunk to reach
the back of the tank, without getting stuck on the walls of the
tank. Test fit in the tank and adjust as necessary. With the
stopper assembly in place, the fuel clunk should sit just in front
of the rear of the tank and move freely inside the tank. If not
pull the assembly back out and trim the tubing back until the
stopper moves freely. The top of the vent tube should rest just
below the top of the tank. It should not touch the top of the
tank.
d)
Once you are satisfied with the fit of both the fuel clunk line and
the vent line you can tighten the screw to expand the rubber
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