Royal Enfield CONSTELLATION 1958, Руководство по техническому обслуживанию мастерской

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Section H5 Page 4
If it is necessary to remove the bronze bushes
these can be driven out by means of a hammer
and a suitable drift and new bushes can be fitted
under a press without difficulty. After fitting the
bushes they must be reamed to .844/.843 in.
6. Centre Stand
To remove the centre stand unscrew the nut
from one end of the stand spindle, knock out the
latter and withdraw the stand complete with its
bearing sleeve after disconnecting one end of the
stand spring.
7. Wheel Alignment
Note that it is not possible to guarantee that
the wheels are correctly aligned when the same
notch position is used on both adjuster cams. It is
therefore not sufficient to count the notches and
use the same position on both sides of the
machine. The only way to guarantee that the
wheels are in line is to check the alignment from
front wheel to back using either a straight edge
or a piece of taut string. The alignment should be
checked on both sides of the machine and if the
front and rear tyres are of different section
allowance must be made for this.
It is usual to check the alignment of the
wheels at a point about six inches above the
ground but, if the alignment is checked also
towards the top of the wheels, it will be possible
to ascertain whether or not the frame is twisted
so as to cause one wheel to be leaning while the
other is vertical. To do this it is always necessary
to remove the mudguards and, unless a straight
edge cut away in its centre portion is available, it
will be necessary also to remove the cylinder,
toolboxes, battery, etc., in order to allow an
unbroken straight edge or a piece of taut string to
contact the front and rear tyres.
8. Lubrication
The steering head races, swinging arm pivot
bearing and stand pivot bearing should be well
greased on assembly. The swinging arm pivot
and stand pivot are provided with grease nipples
but no nipples are provided for the steering head
as experience has shown that the provision of
nipples at this point causes trouble through
chafing and cutting of control and lighting cables.
If the steering head bearings are well packed they
will last for several years or many thousands of
miles.
Recommended greases are Castrolease
(Heavy), Mobilgrease (No. 4), Esso Grease
Energrease C. I or Shell Retinax A.
9. Dismantling the Rear Mudguard-dual Seat
Assembly, 1961 onwards
Having removed the assembly front the
frame as described in Section C, paragraph 8,
dismantling for repair or replacement is a simple
matter.
First remove the single, 3/16 in. bolt securing
the number plate, and disconnect the rear light
wire at the junctions. The lifting handles are next
pulled out, after undoing the two 5/16 in. nuts on
each handle. The grommets may be left in
position in the mudguard.
Take out the two 3/16 in. bolts in the nose of
the muduard. These screw into tapped holes in
the dual seat. When replacing, the shakeproof
washer must be next to the head of the bolt and
the large plain washer must be against the
underside of the mudguard.
Remove the single 3/16 in. nut and bolt attac-
hing the rear of the mudguard to the carrier. Note
the large plain washer, this must be under the bolt
head, and bear against the top of the mudguard on
assembly. Also the shakeproof washer and metal
plate on the underside.
Lastly, the two 1/4 in. bolts attaching the
front of the carrier to the mudguard, and the two
5/16 in. bolts in the carrier bridge piece, can be
undone. They fit into tapped holes in the dual
seat
Note that shakeproof washers are fitted to all
bolts and studs. Plain washers must be placed as
described above and shown in Fig. 3.
On some early 1961 "Constellation" models,
this mudguard is made from glass-fibre and in
the event of damage small repair kits, consisting
of a quantity of resin, catalyst and glass fibre,
are available from our Service Department.
Instructions for carrying out minor repairs are
issued with this kit. All other models have the
mudguard of pressed steel.
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