Extract the tappet guides, using Special Tool
No. E.5790, having heated the case first.
The guides are made from Nickel Chrome
Alloy Iron and if a guide should break while
removing it, it can be withdrawn with a pair of
pliers if the crankcase is heated locally with a
blowlamp. Otherwise it is necessary to
dismantle the crankcase and drive the tappet and
guide out from underneath using a heavy bar in
the cam tunnel.
The guide should have an interference of
0.015 to 0.025 in. in the crankcase and can be
driven in with a bronze drift, care being taken
when the guide is nearly home to avoid breaking
the collar.
If a tappet guide is taken out it should be
replaced by an oversize one.
28.
Dismantling the Breather
If the breather is not operating efficiently, it
may cause pressure in the crankcase, instead of
a partial vacuum, giving rise to smoking or over
oiling.
See that the discs and back-plate are clean
and undamaged and that the discs are seating
properly.
When re-assembling the breather, apply
jointing compound sparingly to the back of the
steel plate taking great care to keep it away from
the discs or their seatings.
29. Removal of Clutch
Remove the engine sprocket and clutch
sprocket together as described in Subsection 26.
To remove the clutch hub, hold the clutch
with Special Tool No. E 4871 and remove the
centre retaining nut and washer with a box
spanner.
The hub can then be withdrawn from the
shaft with Special Tool No. E.5414.
30.
Removal of Final Drive Sprocket
Remove the clutch as described in
Subsection 29.
Remove the primary chain tensioner.
Remove the rear half of the primary chain
case by taking out three socket screws.
Remove the grub screw locking the final
drive sprocket nut.
Hold the sprocket and remove the nut
(Right
Hand Thread).
The sprocket can then be
withdrawn.
31. Removal of Bearing Housing Felt Washer
Remove the engine sprocket, clutch and rear
half of the primary chain case.
The felt washer is located in the steel
housing at the back of the chain case.
Great care must be taken not to nip the felt
washer behind the sprocket on re-assembly as
this would make the engine very stiff to turn
over and would damage the washer and allow
leakage from the crankcase.
32. Oil Pipe Unions
The oil feed to the rocker gear is through
pipes from unions at the back of the crankcase
below the cylinder base to unions on the
cylinder heads. The unions are fitted with steel
wire thread inserts to prevent the threads in the
aluminium from stripping.
The method of fitting the thread inserts is
the same as that used for the sparking plug
inserts described in Subsection 14.
33. Rocker Oil Feed Relief Valves
There is a pressure relief valve in the oil
supply to the rocker gear, whose function is to
prevent excessive pressure and whose setting is
not critical.
The valve is located in the crankcase face
behind the timing cover and consists of a 3/16
in. diameter steel ball held in position by a
spring and a brass plug.
The valve is set before leaving the Works
and should not normally require to be disturbed
but, if it is found necessary to dismantle it, it
can be reset by screwing the plug in until it is
flush with the face of the crankcase, which will
cause
the
pressure
to
be
relieved
at
approximately 10 lbs. per square inch. The plug
is prevented from moving by peening over the
aluminium into the screwdriver slot with a small
centre punch.
34.
Fitting the Alternator
The alternator consists of two parts, the
stator and the rotor. The stator is mounted on
the back half of the primary chaincase, being
held in position by three studs and distance
pieces. The rotor, which contains the permanent
magnets is mounted by means of an adaptor on
the end of the crankshaft and is secured by a
stud and nut and located by a key.
The radial air gap between the rotor and the
poles of the stator should be .020 in. in all
positions and care must be taken when re-fitting
to see that it is not less than .010 in. at any
point.
Fit the rotor first, making sure that it is
located concentrically on the end of the
crankshaft. Attention must be given to the
seating of the key because a badly-fitting key
may cause the rotor to run unevenly. The nut
holding the rotor in position is secured by a tab
washer.
Having fitted the rotor, place the three
distance collars over the three studs in the
Section C4 Page 9
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Содержание CONSTELLATION 1958
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Страница 21: ...Section C4 Page 2 w w w h i t c h c o c k s m o t o r c y c l e s c o m ...
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Страница 43: ...1961 SUPER METEOR w w w h i t c h c o c k s m o t o r c y c l e s c o m ...
Страница 45: ...Section E4 Page 2 w w w h i t c h c o c k s m o t o r c y c l e s c o m ...
Страница 52: ...Section E7 Page 5 w w w h i t c h c o c k s m o t o r c y c l e s c o m ...
Страница 55: ...Section F3 Page 2 w w w h i t c h c o c k s m o t o r c y c l e s c o m ...
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Страница 67: ...1961 CONSTELLATION w w w h i t c h c o c k s m o t o r c y c l e s c o m ...
Страница 80: ...Section H5 Page 1 w w w h i t c h c o c k s m o t o r c y c l e s c o m ...
Страница 97: ...Section M6 Page 1 SECTION M6 Special Tools w w w h i t c h c o c k s m o t o r c y c l e s c o m ...
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