Royal Enfield CONSTELLATION 1958, Руководство по техническому обслуживанию мастерской

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EXPLODED VIEW OF CLUTCH
Fig. 2
3. Removal of the Gearbox
This is described in Section D, Subsection 2.
The gearbox can, however, be completely
dismantled with the engine in the frame except
for the removal of the inside operator and the
bearings in the gearbox shell.
4. To Dismantle the Gearbox
First remove the kickstart crank, the
changegear lever and the neutral finder and
pointer.
Remove four screws and the gearbox outer
cover can then be detached.
Remove the change-gear mechanism, by
taking off the two nuts securing it.
' Remove the mainshaft bearing cover which is
attached by two screws.
Remove four cheese-headed screws and one
hexagon bolt.
Remove the spring box locating plunger nut
and washer.
Remove the mainshaft nut (left-hand
thread).
The gearbox inner cover can then be
removed.
The mainshaft can be drawn straight out if
the clutch has been removed, which, however,
should be done before taking off the gearbox
inner cover. (See Section C.) The top gear
pinion and dog will come away with the
mainshaft.
The layshaft can then be removed and the
2nd and 3rd gears drawn off the final drive
sleeve together with the operator fork.
To take out the final drive sleeve, the final
drive sprocket must be removed and this is
preferably done before removing the inner
cover. (See Section C.)
5. Removal of the Ball Races
The mainshaft ball bearings can be removed
by using a stepped drift 1.7/16 – 1.11/64 in.
diameter for the bearing in the box and 13/16 –
39/64 in. diameter for the bearing in the cover.
When refitting the bearings stepped drifts of
2.5/16 – 1.11/64 in. diameter and 1.11/16 –
39/64 in. diameter must be used for the bearings
in the box and cover respectively.
Note the felt washer in the recess behind the
larger mainshaft bearing and the dished
pen-steel washer between the bearing and the
felt washer. (Later gearboxes use a neoprene
seal with a flat washer). The second dished
pen-steel washer, if fitted, has a smaller central
hole and is on the other side of the mainshaft
bearing and is nipped between the inner face of
the bearing and the shoulder on the final drive
sleeve. However this is ommited from later
gearboxes. See that both of the dished pen-steel
washers have their raised portions facing
towards the clutch and final drive sprockets.
6. Change-Gear Mechanism
If the two nuts securing the change-gear
ratchet mechanism are slackened the adjuster
plate can be set in the correct position. In this
position the movement of the gear lever
necessary to engage the ratchet teeth will be
approximately the same in each direction.
If the plate is incorrectly adjusted, it may be
found that, after moving from top to third or
from bottom to second gear, the outer ratchets
do not engage the teeth on the inner ratchets
correctly.
If, when fitting new parts, it is found that the
gears do not engage properly, ascertain whether
a little more movement is required or whether
there is too much movement so that the gear
slips right through second or third gear into
neutral. If more movement is required, this can
be obtained by filing the adjuster plate very
slightly at the points of contact with the pegs on
the ratchet ring.
If too much movement is already present, a
new adjuster plate giving less movement must
be fitted.
7. Reassembling the Gearbox
The procedure is the reverse of that given in
Subsection 4, but the following points should be
noted :
If the mainshaft top gear pinion and dog have
been removed, make sure that the dog is
replaced the right way round or third and top
gears can be engaged simultaneously.
Make sure that the trunnions on the operator
fork engage with the slots in the inside operator.
Section E7 Page 2
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