minicopter Diabolo 2018, Руководство пользователя

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from a short patch of the boom with a piece of sand paper to ensure static
grounding.
Bag 11: Completion (Step 33-39)
33. The tail pushrod guides D59, D60, D66 will be installed as shown on the
pictures .The tool will be made out of a simple paper clip.
Doing this for the first time, the help of a second person is recommended.
After going through this work step several times, it becomes really easy.
Alternatively the tail pushrod guides can be put on, before the tail rotor
housing is installed. The flexible mounting effectively absorbs the
vibration of the tail pushrod 350.
The mountings should be placed so that the intervening distances of the tail
pushrod are roughly equal.
34. You now prepare about a thumbnail size amount of epoxy resin 1:1 (mix
thoroughly!) and glue the 4 eyelet bushes 316 onto the x2 5.5mm CF tail boom
supports D75.
The tail boom supports are screwed together loosely with the boom support
clasp D76, using a hex bolt M3x40 D93 and lock nut 008. The front eyelet
bushes are screwed on, using distance bushes D79 and a hex bolt M3x14 D84.
After that the boom support clamp D76 is aligned and tightened up.
35. Now the threaded pushrod links are glued into the CF tail rotor push rod
350. For this we first apply epoxy resin into the cut CF rod and also some
on the tail threaded link. The link is inserted into the CF pushrod with
about 7 to 8mm remaining outside.
With the help of a hairdryer the epoxy can be hardened in about 5 minutes,
slowly turning the rod in the heat blast. After cooling, twist on a ball
joint 041 and clip it to the front of the servo arm. The servo arm has to be
aligned square and put on the tail rotor in a 0° setting angle. Then you can
use a marker to put a line at the end of the ball joint 041, previously
clipped onto the bell crank, and cut the CF pushrod with a Dremel or
Proxxon. Once the pushrod is cut to length the threaded pushrod and ball
link can be epoxied into the CF pushrod and clipped onto the servo once the
epoxy has hardened. Plea note that the rear joint must be screwed completely
on until hitting the carbon pushrod. The front thread may be open a little
bit, the rear end must be fully closed.
Onto the rudder horn of the tail rotor servo, in this case a Futaba 4-times-
cross-arm is used. In the outermost hole of the servo arm is screwed a hex
bolt M2x10 099, a 4.8mm ball D118 and an M2 washer 001, after drilling out
the arm hole to a diameter of 1.8mm (5/64”). From the underside it will be
secured with an M2 washer 001 and an M2 lock nut 007.
The tail servo arm will be adjusted square to the servo, but will also not
be screwed together yet.
36. The gold motor bullet connectors will now be soldered on in the regular
way (female on the live side) and insulated. For the motor, 4mm connectors
are sufficient, for the battery 5.5 or 6mm connectors should be used, for
the lowest possible resistance.
The ESC can be attached to the ESC mount with two cable ties. The cables can
be run as shown on the pictures. When attaching live cables to the body rods
please remember that carbon fiber is electrically conductive and in the
worst case scenario the chaffing of insulation can lead to an electrical
short.
With the
O-Ring mount (V1) method, the battery is laid onto the battery
plate 292 and is inserted into the battery tray lying on the spacers D86.
Then the O-rings below are pulled up. This method is simple, light and
universal. However it can happen during really hard 3D flight that the
battery will move between the frames a little bit. This you can avoid by
adding some foam tape onto the Lipo. Take care that the balancer cables on
the batteries cannot be damaged at the windows of the frames else shorts can
occur, these can be avoided using spiral or shrink wrap tubes around the
cables.
37. For the
rail mounting (V2) , battery tray the rails D137 are mounted with
the holes more to the bottom edge, leaving a small slot above on each side.
Please make sure that you mount the rails with the chamfered edges to the