Malibu Boats Response TXi, Руководство пользователя

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Winterizing the Flush Kit
Begin by performing a normal
flushing of the engine.
WITH THE BOAT OUT OF THE WATER:
• Locate the flush kit connector on the
port side of the transom, above the
swim platform.
• Connect a gardening-type hose as
shown in the accompanying photo to the
flush kit system at the connector and
turn on the fresh water at the source.
• With the boat shifter in neutral, start the
engine and allow it to idle. During the
Lifting the Boat
Many boat owners remove the boat from water by way of a
trailer, which allows for transport as well as an excellent way to
store the boat if the trailer was designed and built for that boat
model. Incorrect fit means that there will be undue stress on the
boat’s structural unit. Over time, these components could potentially
fail, which would not be covered under warranty.
However, some boaters, especially those who are privileged to
live on a shoreline or due to the methods of extracting boats from
specific bodies of water, must lift the boat to suspend the boat or use
a boat cradle.
When the boat must be lifted, use the correct sling system or
the lifting eyes only. Never allow a lifting device to wrap around the
underwater gear as the weight of the boat could cause the sling
to damage the gear. The boat may not be able to withstand the
gravitational forces if the boat is not properly supported.
Never use the ski pylon or tower
as part of the lifting process. These
compartments are not designed to be
utilized at any time or any point in the lifting process. Never use
the cleats for lifting either. Never lift the boat with any water in
the ballast or bilge systems of the boat. The additional weight
could cause failure also.
When using the lifting eyes on the boat, an overhead hoist should
be used to lift the boat, coupled with appropriately rated capacity
straps. Each strap must be rated for the boat weight or higher. See
the
Quick Reference Guide in this manual to determine the boat’s
base weight, without any added gear. Spreader bars should also be
used to prevent side loading of the stern eyes as well as damage to
the rub rail on the bow. When lifting the boat, keep the bow slightly
higher than the stern to avoid having any water run into the engine
exhaust system.
When using slings, an appropriately rated capacity overhead
hoist is required. Multiple slings at least six (6) inches by twenty (20)
feet should be used. As with the lifting eye straps above, check the
Quick Reference Guide in this manual to determine the boat’s base
weight, without any added gear. An eight-foot (8’)spread bar on each
sling will prevent side pressure to the deck or gunwale molding that
can cause damage. Such damage is not covered under warranty.
A storage cradle must provide proper support to the boat,
meaning the boat cannot be supported by resting the gull on the
keel. There can be no gaps between the hull and the cradle supports.
Support of at least five-hundred (500) square inches is required on
boats of less than twenty-five feet (25’), and at least six-hundred
(600) square inches on boats greater than twenty-five feet (25’).
Protect all underwear gear protruding from the boat hull from
damage. None of these components is rated to support any of the
boat’s weight.
148—Care and Maintenance
entire process, DO NOT EXCEED 1100 RPM on the engine. The freshwater
hose cannot provide sufficient water supply to adequately cool the
engine at higher RPMs. Also, never take the boat out of neutral gear.
• After approximately two-to-three (2-3) minutes of flushing, shut
off the engine.
• Turn off the freshwater supply.
• Disconnect the hose and reinstall the cap on the flush kit connector.
Inspect that the flush cap is tight before
every outing or it will suck air and
could damage the cooling system. Such
damage is not covered under warranty.
Winterizing Procedure
After flushing the engine, remove the T-handle drain plug in
the bilge compartment, and the engine drain plugs located on the
V-drive under the coupler, bottom of the heat exchanger, and both
manifolds.
• All drain plugs should be placed in a plastic bag and stored in a
visible location so when recommissioning the boat, the plugs will
not be overlooked.
• After flushing with fresh water, open all drain cocks. Depending
upon the model, there may be several.
• When the water has fully drained, close the drain cocks and
tape shut the water inlet on the bottom of the boat. Use low-
tack type of tape to avoid damaging the finished on the inlet and
surrounding metal and gel coat. The water pickup does not need
to be taped.
• With the boat shifter in neutral, start the engine and allow it
to idle. During the entire process, DO NOT EXCEED 1100 RPM on
the engine. The freshwater hose cannot provide sufficient wear
supply to adequately cool the engine at higher RPMs. Also, never
take the boat out of neutral gear.
• Run until there is no longer water coming out. DO NOT RUN THE
ENGINE FOR MORE THAN 30 SECONDS! This procedure allows any
remaining water in the system to be forced out.
• Remove the tape from the raw water intake, and the garden hose
from the valve.
Winterizing with the Boat in Water
• After the flushing process is complete, remove the adapter from
the flush pump cap strap and insert the adapter into the flush
pump valve.
• Using a piece of gardening type hose, place the male end of
the hose into the flush kit fitting and place the other end into a
container of the mare-grade, 50/50 mix of distilled water and
propylene glycol coolant, if not using a pre-mix of the same.
• Open all petcocks and drain the engine block and water-cooled
manifolds. If the petcocks are plugged, carefully unclog the
openings. When all the water has drained out, close all petcocks,
and replace any plugs that were removed.