UK
Why test?
The following applies to freshwater and saltwater as well as to garden ponds:
The process involved in the breakdown or the mineralization of organic matter in the aquarium
(feed and plant debris,
fi
sh excretions) follows the stages proteins - ammonium - nitrite - nitrate.
Certain bacteria are responsible for this process. Measuring the intermediate stages ammonium,
nitrite and nitrate allows certain conclusions about the function of the “aquarium” or “pond”
system. Normally, ammonium and nitrite should not be allowed to enrich above concentrations
of 0.2 mg/litre (ppm). If they do, the bacteria balance may be disturbed. A continuous increase
in the nitrate content of the aquarium, accompanied by a low or undetectable ammonium and
nitrite content, is characteristic of a well-functioning bacteria balance. Nitrate is the end product
of mineralization in the aquarium, and it is non-toxic to
fi
sh even in relatively high concentrations.
However, it has a detrimental effect on plant growth and on the well-being of some species of
fi
sh. If phosphate is present in the water in addition to nitrate, levels of nitrate which are too high
promote the growth of unwanted algae. This is why the nitrate content of the water should be
kept below 50 mg/litre (ppm) in freshwater and 20 mg/l (ppm) in saltwater. In garden ponds the
nitrate level should not exceed 10 mg/l and ideally it should not be measurable. In ponds which
have not been correctly laid out, nitrates from fertiliser used on the surrounding area can often
seep into the pond.
Remedy:
Aquarium: Regular partial changes of water,
fi
lter with JBL NitratEx (for freshwater only), or
JBL BioNitratEx.
Garden pond: When laying out a pond, suf
fi
cient gravel should be used on the ground as a
substrate for plants which consume nitrates and bacteria which breakdown nitrates. Select more
nitrate-consuming plants. Plant marshy areas with nitrate-consuming plants (particularly in koi
ponds without ground-covering material).
Instructions:
1. Repeatedly rinse both test jars with the aquarium water to be tested.
2. Use the enclosed syringe to
fi
ll each of the test jars with 10 ml of sample water.
3. Add the reagents to one of the test jars as follows:
a) 2 large measuring spoonfuls (broad end of the enclosed double-ended spoon) of reagent 1;
b) 6 drops of reagent 2, seal and agitate
very vigorously*
for 1 minute; (powder does not dis-
solve completely: for better colour comparison, hold the test jar at an angle until the remaining
powder collects on the side);
c) allow to settle until the colouring develops fully (10 minutes).
*)
At Item b) if the mixture is not shaken long enough or vigorously enough, the test
results may be too low.
4. Place both test jars into the comparator block: the jar with added reagent into the smooth end
of the comparator block, the jar with the untreated test water (blank sample) into the notched
end of the comparator block.
5. Move the comparator block together with the jars from side to side over the colour chart,
with the notched side of the block facing the scale, until the colour of the sample with added
reagent matches the colour of the blank sample.
6. Read the nitrate content in the notch of the comparator block.
Note:
If the colour of the tested sample is darker than the colours of the scale, dilute the sample with
distilled or nitrate-free water and repeat the test.
Depending on the dilution, the actual nitrate level can be calculated by multiplying the result
as follows:
5 ml 5ml dist. water: result x 2
2 ml 8 ml dist. water: result x 5
1 ml 9 ml dist. water: result x 10
See the JBL brochure “What, Why, How” No. 2 for more details on the signi
fi
cance of the nitrogen
system (ammonium-nitrite-nitrate) in an aquarium, or JBL brochure No. 8 for garden ponds.
