engine. This is a good reason to use an after-run oil. Store your
engine inside the house, not in a garage or shed where there will
be temperature extremes.
Glow Plug
The glow plug is an item that will wear out and need replacement
from time to time. It is a good idea to remove the glow plug before
your first run, connect the plug to the glow starter and see how well
it glows. You should see a bright orange glow from the filament. If
a coil or two will not glow or the plug will not glow at all, replace the
plug. If the engine quits when you remove the glow starter, the plug
might need to be changed, although this may be because you are
running too rich and need to screw in your high-speed needle
some. Look at the glow plug when you are running the engine. If
you see some bubbles coming from around the plug, replace the
glow plug (copper) gasket, or both the plug and gasket. The only
real way to test a glow plug is to replace it. Make sure you have a
spare plug (Siver Sport Glow Plug-DTXG3001) or two on hand
every time that you run the Nitro Evader BX.
Fuel
Fuel can go bad. The main ingredient in model fuel is methanol,
which is basically alcohol. Alcohol will absorb water out of the air,
so keep your fuel jug capped at all times. Store your fuel out of the
sunlight and in a cool place. Bad fuel is one of the most difficult
problems to diagnose in engines. If you have tried everything you
can think of to remedy an engine that is not running correctly, try
using some fresh fuel.
Maintenance
The fuel line is susceptible to pinhole leaks. You cannot see the
hole in the fuel line, but if you see air bubbles in the line going to
the carburetor, replace the fuel line. Another symptom of a leak in
the fuel line is a surging engine. A properly tuned engine will surge
when the air bubbles hit the carb. It is basically leaning out the
mixture.
To keep dirt out of the engine, we recommend that you use an
inline fuel filter (Clean Flow Fuel Filter-DTXC2551) on the fuel line
running from the fuel tank to the carburetor. Dirt can get caught in
the needle seat and cause an inconsistent running engine. If you
suspect that some dirt has lodged itself in the carb, remove the
needles and clean the carb with denatured alcohol or fuel. It can
help to use compressed air to blow out the fuel passages as well.
Dirt can get into your carburetor and engine through the air filter.
Ensure that your air cleaner has a good seal to the top of the carb.
Periodically wash the air cleaner foam element and re-oil the filter.
Any air cleaner that has a torn element or a bad seal should be
replaced immediately.
Overheating
One of the worst things you can do to your engine is overheat it.
The oils that lubricate the engine are carried in the fuel. If your
engine is set too lean, there will not be enough oil in the engine to
lubricate the internal parts. This will cause premature wear in the
engine and cause damage. We have talked about overheating in
other parts of this manual, but we want to stress the proper
techniques to check for overheating. The easiest way of checking
the temperature of the cylinder head is using one of the available
temperature gauges. This will give you a direct reading of the
cylinder head temperature. Do not let the head temperature
exceed 250° Fahrenheit (121° Celsius). Another way of checking
the head temperature is to put a drop of water on the cylinder
head. If it boils away immediately, the high-speed needle is set too
lean. If the water boils away in 3-5 seconds, the engine is within
proper operating temperatures. If the water boils away longer than
5 seconds, the mixture is set rich which is preferable when
breaking in the engine. Otherwise lean the mixture some and
retest after a minute of running.
The ball differential has been adjusted at the factory for proper “break-
in”. Do not tighten the differential before the buggy has been properly
broken-in or you can damage the differential.
After running the buggy for 2 or 3 tanks of fuel, the ball differential
may require readjustment. This is the “normal” break-in period for
the ball differential. You will hear a “squealing” sound when
accelerating from a stop and the buggy will accelerate slower. This
indicates that the differential is properly broken-in and now
requires adjustment. Do not run the buggy again until the
differential is properly readjusted as follows.
Adjusting the differential is quick and easy. Access the adjusting
screw by disconnecting the rear camber link (using pliers) at the
right rear wheel. Rotate the wheel and CV shaft out of the way.
While holding the left rear tire, tighten the adjusting screw by
inserting the included 3/32" L-wrench into the cap screw on the
right side of the ball differential. The screw should be tightened
until it is “just snug.” Caution: Do not over tighten the adjusting
screw or you will damage the differential. Next, loosen the screw
1/8 of a turn.
Reinstall the CV shaft back into the differential and reattach the
camber link. The ball differential may need occasional adjustment
to maintain performance.
BALL DIFFERENTIAL BREAK-IN
12
