DeWalt DWS715, Оригинальное руководство пользователя, Страница: 11 / 48

9
English
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth
carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it securely in place. Always let the
blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape
on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape
when finished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommended saw blades for your saw and
select the one that best fits your needs. Refer to
saw Blades
under Accessories.
Clamping the Workpiece (Fig. A)
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and
disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change
accessories or make any adjustments.
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become
unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything
the saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may
become unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted
to a stable surface. Personal injury may occur.
WARNING:
The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever
the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to any other
part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of
the saw.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece
damage and personal injury.
If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand, (irregular
shape, etc.) or your hand would be less than 4" (100 mm) from the blade, a clamp or other
fixture must be used.
For best results use the clamp (
21
) provided with your saw. Additional DW7090 clamps can be
purchased at your local retailer or D
e
WALT service center.
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes
and shapes of material. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take time to make
a dry run before making the cut. The sliding fence (
10 ) will slide from side to side to aid in
clamping
To Install Clamp (Fig. A)
1. Insert the clamp ( 21 ) into one of the four locations ( 15 ) on the base.
2. Lifting up on the arm of the clamp can rapidly adjust the height, then use the fine adjust
knob to firmly clamp the workpiece.
nOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY
RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE
CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW OR GUARDS.
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become
unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything
the saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may
become unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted
to a stable surface.
WARNING:
The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever
the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw–not to any other
part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of
the saw.
Support for Long Pieces
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn off the tool and
disconnect it from the power source before attempting to move it, change
accessories or make any adjustments.
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES.
Never use another person as a substitute for a table extension; as additional support for a
workpiece that is longer or wider than the basic miter saw table or to help feed, support or
pull the workpiece.
For best results, use the DWX723, DWX724, DWX725B or DWX726 miter saw stand to extend
the table width of your saw. These are available from your dealer at extra cost.
Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to
keep the ends from dropping.
Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes and Other Four-Sided
Projects (Fig. P)
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple
projects using scrap wood until you develop a “FEEL” for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one shown in Figure P. Sketch A in
Figure P shows a joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two
boards at 45° each to produce a 90° miter corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the
zero position and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45°. The wood was positioned with the
broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could also be
made by mitering right and left with the broad surface against the fence.
Cutting Trim Molding and Other Frames (Fig. P)
Sketch B in Figure P shows a joint made by setting the miter arm at 45° to miter the two
boards to form a 90° corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and
the miter arm to 45°. Once again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table and
the narrow edge against the fence.
Plug the saw into any household 60 Hz power source. Refer to the nameplate for voltage. Be
sure the cord will not interfere with your work.
Body and Hand Position (Fig. M1–M4)
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, ALWAYS use proper hand position
as shown.
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, ALWAYS hold securely in anticipation
of a sudden reaction.
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the miter saw will make cutting
easier, more accurate and safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no closer
than 4" (100 mm) from the blade. Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence
when cutting. Keep hands in position until the trigger has been released and the blade has
completely stopped. ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS SO THAT
YOU CAN CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. DO NOT CROSS ARMS, AS SHOWN IN FIGURE M3.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance. As you move the miter arm
left and right, follow it and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the guard
louvers when following a pencil line.
Trigger Switch (Fig. N)
To turn the saw on, push the lock-off lever ( 32 ) to the left, then depress the trigger switch ( 1 ).
The saw will run while the switch is depressed. Allow the blade to spin up to full operating
speed before making the cut. To turn the saw off, release the switch. Allow the blade to stop
before raising the saw head. There is no provision for locking the switch on. A hole (
33 ) is
provided in the trigger for insertion of a padlock to lock the switch off.
Always be sure the blade has stopped before removing it from the kerf.
Dust Extraction (Fig. O)
WARNING: To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn unit off and
disconnect it from power source before making any adjustments or removing/
installing attachments or accessories.
An accidental start-up can cause injury.
Your saw has a built-in dust port (
12
) that allows either the supplied dust bag (
35
) or a shop
vacuum system to be connected.
To Attach the Dust Bag
1. Fit the dust bag ( 35 ) to the dust port ( 12 ) as shown in Figure O.
To Empty the Dust Bag
1. Remove dust bag ( 35 ) from the saw and gently shake or tap the dust bag to empty.
2. Reattach the dust bag back onto the dust port ( 12 ).
You may notice that all the dust will not come free from the bag. This will not affect cutting
performance but will reduce the saw's dust collection efficiency. To restore your saw's dust
collection efficiency, depress the spring inside the dust bag when you are emptying it and tap
it on the side of the trash can or dust receptacle.
CAUTION: Never operate this saw unless the dust bag or D
e
WALT dust extractor is
in place. Wood dust may create a breathing hazard.
Cutting with Your Saw
NOTE: Although this saw will cut wood and many non-ferrous materials, we will limit our
discussion to the cutting of wood only. The same guidelines apply to the other materials.
DO
nOT CUT FERROUs (iROn AnD sTEEl) MATERiAls OR MAsOnRY WiTh This sAW . Do
not use any abrasive blades.
Crosscuts
Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended but can be done safely by ensuring that each
piece is held firmly against the table and fence. A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the
grain at any angle. A straight crosscut is made with the miter arm at the zero degree position.
Set the miter arm at zero, hold the wood on the table and firmly against the fence. Turn on the
saw by squeezing the trigger.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece
damage and personal injury.
When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and slowly to cut
through the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.
Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle other than zero. This angle is often
45° for making corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 50° left or right. After selecting
the desired miter angle, be sure to lock miter lock knob. Make the cut as described above.
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood, match the angle as close as possible.
Cut the wood a little too long and measure from the pencil line to the cut edge to determine
which direction to adjust the miter angle and recut. This will take some practice, but it is a
commonly used technique.
Bevel Cuts (Fig. A)
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at a bevel to the wood. In order to set the
bevel, loosen the bevel lock knob (
11
) and move the saw to the left as desired. (It is necessary
to move the fence to allow clearance). Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the
bevel clamp knob firmly.
Bevel angles can be set up to 48° left and can be cut with the miter arm set between zero
and 50° right or left. At some extreme angles, the left side fence might have to be removed.
To remove the left fence, unscrew the fence locking knob (
14
) several turns and slide the
fence out.
Quality of cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like material being cut,
blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut.