FLUE CONNECTIONS
Good ventilation, which includes flue connections and
room drafts, is just as important for correct oven
operation as adequate gas supply.
Generally speaking, ovens should never be directly
flue connected, if a direct flue system can be avoided.
The ideal method of ventilating an oven is the use of a
properly designed hood. Hood should extend about
6" beyond all sides of the appliance. The hood should
be connected to an adequate exhaust duct or system.
When ovens are installed in locations with low ceil-
ings, care must be taken to insure proper clearance
for the flue products. Lack of this clearance above
outlet of rear flue piping will interfere with heat cir-
culation in the oven and could create a fire hazard
condition. Refer to NFPA #96.
Do not permit fans to blow directly at the oven and
wherever possible, avoid open windows next to the oven
sides or back, avoid wall type fans which create air cross
currents within the room.
It is also necessary that sufficient room air should be
allowed to enter the room to compensate for the amount
of air removed by any ventilating system. Otherwise, a
subnormal atmosphere pressure will occur, affecting oven
operation adversely and causing undesirable working
conditions.
A properly designed and installed hood will act as the
heart of the ventilating system for the room or area in
which the oven is installed, and will leave the oven
independent of changing draft conditions.
TROUBLE-SHOOTING – SERVICE
The following is intended to provide a guide for trouble
shooting procedure and covers some of the more
common problems with the equipment. The servicing
personnel, as with any other equipment, need to
become familiar enough with the circuit and the
components in order to be able to follow a logical
sequence of trouble shooting, and repair malfunctions
not mentioned in the following paragraphs.
The instruments necessary for trouble shooting would
be:
A.
A.C. Voltmeter to measure line voltages up to 480
volts.
B.
A.C. Amp-meter to measure line currents.
C.
Accurate Thermometer to measure oven
temperature
up to 500°F.
In the following paragraphs, the voltmeter is used to
measure the voltage between 2 phases on 208, 240,
480 volt and between one phase and neutral on
220/380 and 240/415 volt supplies. Do not measure
the voltage with respect to the chassis ground. For the
sake of simplicity, the measured voltage is referred to
120 volt, assuming that the supply is 120 volt. When
supply is 240 or 220, the measured voltage should
also be 240 or 220—it is also assumed that the voltage
rating of the oven matches exactly (within the
allowable supply tolerance) that of the field supply.
Refer to the appropriate wiring diagram which has
been packaged separately with this unit in an 11 x 14
clear plastic envelope.
With the main power and oven circuit breakers "ON",
the master switch turned to the "ON" position and the
oven door closed:
Problem: 1. No blower, no heat
Procedure:
Depress the Oven Light switch or turn
timer knob to "0" position. If the lights come On and
the Buzzer sounds, follow step B. If not, follow step A.
STEP A—Measure the voltage between leads 93 and
94 (The supply side) of the Master Switch.
If no voltage, check connection to Power Supply cord
and verify power at wall socket.
If 120 volts, measure the voltage across 21 and 22.
If no voltage, the Master Switch is defective.
If 120 volts, check for bad connection from the switch
terminal to the Thermostat and motor connections.
STEP B—Only the door switch can disable the blower
and heat at the same time. While opening and closing
the right hand door listen for a click near the top of
the right hand door. If no click, the door switch
requires adjustment. If the switch does click but no
heat or blower, the switch may be defective.
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