flipping the prop, fuel and a means of filling the tank, a couple
of small screwdrivers, #64 rubber bands, spare prop and glow
plug, 6" adjustable wrench, and a pair of needle nose pliers. In
addition to tools, you should also take along some paper towels
and spray window cleaner to remove fuel residue after each flight.
4. When you load up to go to the flying field be sure that the
batteries have charged for at least 14 hours, and that you have
your fuselage, wing, transmitter and flight box. And, most
important, you have your AMA license.
5. Range check the radio! See the manufacturer’s instructions
included with your radio system.
Using Rubber Bands
Mount the wing to the fuselage with the 12 supplied rubber
bands. Install them from front to back, crisscrossing the last two.
Never use torn, cracked or oily rubber bands. After removing
the rubber bands from your model, store them in a container
with talcum powder or clay-type kitty litter to absorb oil and keep
them fresh for the next flying session.
If the rubber bands you will be using are different from those
recommended, consult an experienced modeler to make
certain they are strong enough, and that you have used enough
of them. If uncertain, force the front of the wing off of the wing
saddle. There should be considerable resistance! If the wing
can be forced from the fuselage without having to strain your
hands, then there are probably not enough rubber bands.
Taxiing
Start the engine and set the throttle trim for a slow, steady idle.
Have your instructor or a helper hold the plane while you work
the controls. Upon release of the plane, advance the throttle
slightly to start rolling, and then back off the power to prevent
going too fast and possibly taking off. Stand behind the plane as
it taxies away from you and note the direction it turns as you
move the rudder control. One thing to keep in mind with R/C
models (whether it be cars, boats, or planes) is that the steering
controls may seem to “reverse” when the model is moving
toward you. For example, if you are flying toward yourself, and
you give a right control input (ailerons or rudder), the model will
move off to your left. The fact of the matter is, of course, that the
controls are not reversed and the aircraft did actually enter a
right turn. The plane does move off to your left from your
vantage point, but if you imagined yourself in the cockpit you
would realize the plane turned to the right as commanded. All it
takes is a little practice to maintain proper orientation of your
aircraft, but that’s why we recommend finding an instructor.
When you feel comfortable, advance the throttle a little while
standing behind the plane to get the feel of a takeoff roll, but pull
back on the power before the model lifts off. Try this several
times, adding a little more power each time. Use the rudder stick
on your transmitter to steer the plane with the nose wheel while
on the ground. If the plane starts to veer off, immediately cut the
power to prevent a mishap.
Although many R/C pilots have taught themselves to fly, we
strongly recommend that you find an instructor to help get you
started. Although trainers offer the greatest opportunity of
success for the self-taught, there is a high probability that you
will crash your airplane on the first flight. Protect your
investment of time and money–obtain the assistance of an
experienced R/C pilot.
Takeoff
Your first flight should be made in little or no wind. If you have
dual rates on your transmitter, set the switches to “low rate” for
takeoff. Taxi into position, pointing directly into the wind.
Although this model has good low speed characteristics, you
should always gain as much speed as your runway will permit
before lifting off, as this will give you a safety margin in case of
a “flame-out.” Advance the throttle smoothly to the wide-open
setting. When the plane has sufficient flying speed (you won’t
know until you try), lift off by smoothly applying a little up
elevator (don’t force it off into a steep climb!), and climb out
gradually, trying to keep it straight and the wings level. Climb to
about 100 feet before starting a VERY gentle turn by moving the
aileron stick. Apply a little more back pressure on the elevator
stick as the model turns. Stop the turn by moving the aileron
stick in the opposite direction until the wings are level, then
return the stick to the neutral position. Pull the power back to 1/2
throttle.
Flying
We recommend that you take it easy with your model for the
first several flights and gradually “get acquainted” with the plane
as your engine becomes fully broken-in. Trainers are designed
to fly level with neutral elevator trim at approximately 1/3 - 1/2
throttle – this is the best speed for learning to fly. On later flights,
if you want your model to maintain level flight at full throttle, you
will need to give it a little down trim.
Your first flights should consist of mostly straight and level flight
with gentle turns to keep the model over the field. These flights
will give you practice at coordinating your control inputs and
maintaining the proper orientation of the airplane. As mentioned
earlier, turns are accomplished by banking the aircraft with the
ailerons, then gently adding some back stick (up elevator).
Enough back stick should be held in to keep the aircraft at a
constant altitude. To stop turning, apply opposite aileron to level
IMPORTANT!!!
Flying a model with too few rubber
bands can be dangerous. If the wing momentarily lifts
from the fuselage and acts as though a large amount of
“up” elevator has suddenly been applied because there
are not enough rubber bands or they are too weak,
internal structural damage may result. Even worse, the
wing could actually detach from the fuselage resulting
in a crash. If the model exhibits any tendencies that
indicate there are not enough rubber bands,
immediately reduce power, land and closely inspect the
model for damage. If no damage is found, add more
rubber bands.
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