Stanley Fatmax SFMCS701, Original Instructions Manual

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16
ENGLISH (Original instructions)
Warning! Always use a work clamp to maintain control and
reduce the risk of work piece damage and personal injury, if
your hands are required to be within 6" (152 mm) of the blade
during the cut.
Note! The rail lock screw (18) must be loose to allow the saw
to slide along its rails.
Mitre crosscuts are made with the mitre arm at some angle
other than zero.
This angle is often 45º for making corners, but can be set
anywhere from zero to 47º left or 47° right. Make the
cut as described above.
When performing a mitre cut on work pieces wider than a 2
x 6 that are shorter in length, always place the longer side
against the fence (Fig. O).
To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood,
match the angle as close as possible. Cut the wood a little too
long and measure from the pencil line to the cut edge to deter-
mine which direction to adjust the mitre angle and recut. This
will take some practice, but it is a commonly used technique.
Bevel cuts
A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade leaning at
an angle to the wood. In order to set the bevel, loosen the
bevel lock knob (12), and move the saw to the left as desired.
Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the bevel
lock firmly. Bevel angles can be set from 3º right to 48º left.
Quality of cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables.
Things like material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness
and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut. When
smoothest cuts are desired for moulding and other precision
work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide tip) blade and a slower, even
cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that the material does not move or creep while cutting;
clamp it securely in place.
Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm. If
small fibres of wood still split out at the rear of the work piece,
stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where the cut will
be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape
when finished.
For varied cutting applications, refer to the list of recommend-
ed saw blades for your saw and select the one that best fits
your needs. Refer to Saw Blades under Optional Accessories.
Body and hand position (fig. O1–O4)
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the
mitre saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.
Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no closer
than 6" (152 mm) from the blade. Hold the work piece tightly
to the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in posi-
tion until the trigger has been released and the blade has
completely stopped.
ALWAYS MAKE DRY RUNS (UN-POWERED) BEFORE
FINISH CUTS SO THAT YOU CAN CHECK THE PATH OF
THE BLADE. DO NOT CROSS HANDS, AS SHOWN IN
FIGURE O3 .
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper bal -
ance. As you move the mitre arm left and right, follow it and
stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the
guard louvres when following a pencil line.
Clamping the work piece
Warning! To reduce the risk of serious personal injury, turn
tool off and remove the battery pack before transporting,
making any adjustments or removing/installing attachments or
accessories. An accidental start-up can cause injury.
Warning! A work piece that is clamped, balanced and secure
before a cut may become unbalanced after a cut is completed.
An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the saw is
attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a
cut that may become unbalanced, properly support the work
piece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a stable surface.
Personal injury may occur.
Warning! The clamp foot must remain clamped above the
base of the saw whenever the clamp is used. Always clamp
the work piece to the base of the saw – not to any other part
of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the
edge of the base of the saw.
Warning! Always use a work clamp to maintain control and
reduce the risk of work piece damage and personal injury, if
your hands are required to be within 6" (152 mm) of the blade
during the cut. If you cannot secure the work piece on the
table and against the fence by hand (irregular shape, etc.), or
your hand would be less than 6" (152 mm) from the blade, a
clamp or other fixture must be used.
Use the material clamp provided with your saw. To purchase
a material clamp, contact your local retailer or Stanley FatMax
service centre.
Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps
may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of material.
Use care in selecting and placing these clamps. Take time to
make a dry run before making the cut.
To install clamp (fig. P)
u
Insert the clamp (37) into the hole (19) behind the fence.
The clamp should be facing toward the back of the mitre
saw. The groove on the clamp rod should be fully inserted
into the base. Ensure this groove is fully inserted into the
base of the mitre saw. If the groove is visible, the clamp
will not be secure.
u
Rotate the clamp 180º toward the front of the mitre saw.
u
Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use
the fine adjust knob to firmly clamp the work piece.