2.
Airflow through the PCS3 is important. Do not obstruct air going in or out of the unit.
3.
Recirculating the air within the attic works well for heat transfer. Locate the PCS3 within
the middle 1/3 of the attic. Do not locate near an end wall where the unit’s airflow will
become obstructed [finned intake side] or short circuited [air discharge side]. Short cir-
cuiting means that discharged cooler air reflects back into the finned intake side of unit.
4.
Heat is drawn into the coil or finned side and cooler air is discharged from the fan side
[the two blower openings]. If the PCS3 is located off to one side the attic’s center 1/3rd,
make sure the coil side of the unit is facing the longest portion of the attic.
5.
You can suspend the PCS3 on a platform using cargo straps or small chains. You can also
allow the PCS3 to sit on a platform that is connected to the attic structure. We recom-
mend that a one inch piece of foam be placed under the PCS3 and that a smitty pan be
used as a second layer of leak protection. This is actual plumbing code in some locales.
6.
The attic sensor can be cooled by the air discharge of the PCS3. Locate the attic sensor at
the peak of the attic and out of the airflow of the unit. This prevents erratic on and off
cycling caused by the cooling effect of the discharge air. Note: The discharge air of the
PCS3 [blower side of unit] can run 20-30 degrees fahrenheit cooler than the intake air
[coil finned side of unit]. All performance criteria was developed on the basis that the at-
tic temperature sensor would sense the PEAK attic temperature. That is the temperature
at the very apex of the attic where the roof sections join. If this sensor is lowered from
the actual attic peak, heat transfer performance can be dramatically reduced.
7. The pool water sensor can be influenced by the sun and rain. Shelter the pool water
sensor as much as is possible. It can even be insulated if necessary with fiberglass or
other materials. Midnight rain “cooling” the pool sensor can fake the solar control into
thinking the pool needs heat when it doesn’t. An exposed pool sensor might also cause
erratic on and off conditions if not protected (sheltered or insulated) properly.
8.
The ground can “SINK” heat away from pipes going to and from the PCS3. Insulate or
wrap all underground pipes so dirt (the ground) does not contact the pipes directly.
Simple bubble wrap over the pipes that prevent the “wet ground” from coming into direct
contact with the horizontal buried pipes is usually sufficient. It is not necessary to
insulate vertical above ground pipes.
9.
Use 2" pvc pipe to reduce friction losses and on all pools with a pool pump greater than
one horsepower in size. This is especially important for long pipe runs and large pumps.
10.
If you use the recirculating freeze protection in the GL235, it will disable the optional
leak detection float of the PCS3 and prevent the pump and/or the PCS3 from turning off.
11.
The mechanical stress caused by unsupported pipes can crack glued pvc joints. Support
all pipes in and outside of the attic with straps or C-clamps that keep the weight of the
pipes off of all joints and union connections. Do not allow the pipe to sag in the attic.
12. If excessive attic heat is a local concern, CPVC pipe can be used instead of pvc pipe. All
external PVC piping should be painted to avoid deteriation from sunlight. Flex pvc pipe
can be used in the attic to avoid cementing joints in a closed and confined area. This will
provide a continuous length of pipe inside the attic without joints except at the unit.
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