8. Winterization
1. Winterize pool with air as you normally would. Make sure that power is off to the SolarAttic
pool heater and that the pump is disconnected.
2. Blow air through the PCS3 pipes using a shop vacuum or other tool until all water is removed.
3. Perform all other winterization chores.
4. Make sure all pipes by support system are drained completely or they will freeze and bust. Any
suspect pipes having “trapped” water should have a hole drilled and a plug installed for winter
draining.
5. Remove the PCS3’s outlet and inlet unions. Tilt the opposite side up two inches and drain any
coil water into a pan. Next, tilt the inlet/outlet side up two inches followed by a second tilt of the
opposite side for draining any additional coil water into the pan. Repeat this process until no
water drains from the PCS3.
6. Pour 1/2 to 1 gallon of RV [recreational vehicle] non-toxic antifreeze into the bottom of the
PCS3. Note: This dilutes any residual “trapped” water still remaining within the coil and insures
no freeze damage. This is the same type of antifreeze used in the pool’s pump and skimmers
during the winterization process! It is similar to the process used to winterize RV’s and cabins.
7. Reinstall the outlet and inlet unions.
8. The PCS3 is winterized.
CAUTION
: Failure to follow Step #6 above can lead to water coil damage! Even
after Steps #1-5, the PCS3 water coil could still retain a small amount of residual
water that is “trapped” within the bottom of the coil. The non-toxic “RV” antifreeze
[available at local hardware stores] dilutes any residual water and prevents winter
freeze damage. Winter freeze damage is totally preventable and is not covered under
the PCS3 Warranty. It is the owner’s responsibility to have the system winterized.
Bypass Valve Consideration
In the process of winterization, air is blown through all of the pipes to eliminate water inside of the pipes
[and all valves]. The bypass valve should be exercised in both directions a few times to eliminate all of
the water within the valve. This can be accomplished using the manual on/off function of the GL235 or
by manually turning the valve in both positions [with valve motor removed]. This should eliminate all
water inside the bypass valve.
There have been two reported incidents of cracked bypass valves during spring start-up. The bypass
valves were found to be cracked along the underside of the valve. This indicates that water was inside
the valve during a freeze. This was probably the direct result of either: A) An improper winterization
effort; or, B) A bypass valve that is installed in such a position to either “trap” or “collect-back” water
into its base. After the pipes have been drained, a small amount of trapped water or moisture may still
be present in some of the pipes or valves depending upon how the system is plumbed. If the bypass
valve represents such a “trap” or a “collection point” for residual drain-back within the plumbing, it may
cause damage to the valve. Water that freezes needs expansion space.
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