SIG Somethin' EXTRA N477SC Instruction Book Download Page 11

20.

Remove the completed ailerons from your work surface. Both ailerons should now be sanded smooth. Use a long T-bar 
sanding tool and 80 grit sandpaper to smooth both sides and the leading and trailing edges of each aileron (80 grit cuts 
quickly, so don t over do it). Now carefully inspect each aileron for nicks, dings, etc. Use a light filler, such as "Model 
Magic", to patch any problem areas. Once the filler has set, again use the long T-bar sander, with 220 grit sandpaper, to 
sand each aileron completely smooth.

 
21.

 
As shown on the plans, the leading edges of the ailerons are 
chamfered 45 deg. to allow the extreme aileron and flaperon travel 
typically used on this design. The quickest and easiest way to do this 
is to use a pencil to draw a center line on the face of the leading 
edge of the aileron. Next, mark a point at one end of the aileron, 1/8" 
behind the leading edge. Make another mark at the other end of the 
aileron, again at 1/8" behind the leading edge. Use a straightedge 
and pencil to connect the two marks, giving you a pencil line 1/8" behind the leading edge and parallel with it. Do the same 
thing to the other side of the aileron. Use a long T-bar sanding tool and 80 grit sandpaper to uniformly sand the corners off 
the ailerons leading edge at a 45 deg. angle. As you sand, adjust the angle of the T-bar to eventually meet the centerline 
and the line behind the leading edge. When satisfied, turn the aileron over and repeat the process. When complete you 
should have a uniformly angled leading edge on each aileron.

 
22.

 
As shown on the plans, each aileron is hinged to its wing panel with four (4) Easy 
Hinges. Using the plans, mark the location of each hinge onto both the ailerons 
and the wing panels. With a hobby knife and a #11 blade, cut each required 
hinge slot into the ailerons and wing panels. The slots need to be at least 1/2" 
deep and wide enough to accept the Easy Hinges. Trial fit a hinge into each slot 
to assure a good fit. Trial fit each aileron in place to its appropriate wing panel. 
When satisfied, remove the ailerons and set the hinges aside for later use after 
the wing panels are covered.

 
23.

 
From the parts bag in your kit, locate the 1"x8" length of fiberglass tape. As 
shown on the plans, cut four (4) pieces of fiberglass tape measuring 1/2"x3/4". 
These will be placed over the laser cut aileron control horn holes, top and bottom, 
to reinforce these areas. Lay the cut piece of fiberglass in place over the holes 
and flood the tape with thin CA glue until the weave is full. Allow to set and repeat 
the process with the other side of the aileron. Repeat the process on the 
remaining aileron. Use sandpaper to lightly sand the glass smooth.

 

BUILDERS TIP: After cutting the 
fiberglass to the right dimensions, hold 
the piece with a pair of tweezers or 
hemostats and lightly spray one side 
with 3M 77" spray cement. The glass 
will then stay in position on the wood, 
ready for CA.

 

Stabilizer, Fin, Elevators And Rudder

 
24.

 
Beginning with the stabilizer, locate part numbers S-1, S-2, and S-3 (2 each). Pin or weight S-1 securely in place over the 
plan, carefully lining up its rear edge with the drawing. Apply glue to the rear edge of S-2 and position it in place to S-1 - 
weight or pin in place and wipe off any excess glue. Glue an S-3 tip to each side of the stab assembly and pin or weight in 
place.

 
25.

 
With the stabilizer still in place on your work surface, the elevator halves can now 
be built. Locate laser cut part numbers E-1, E-2, and E-3 (2 each) and also E-4 
and E-5. Protect the stab from glue with a strip of wax paper along its rear edge. 
Position part E-2 in place against the back edge of the stab, directly over the plan 
- pin or weight in place. Apply glue to the front edge of E-1 and glue it in place to 
the back edge of E-2 - weight or pin in place and wipe off any excess glue. Glue 
elevator tips E-3 in place to the ends of the E-1/E-2 assembly. As shown on the 
plans, glue E-4 in place to the left elevator half at the inboard edge of the E-1/E-2 
assembly. Glue E-5 (with the laser cut elevator horn holes) to the right elevator 
half, on the inboard side of the right E-1/E-2 assembly.

 

 
26.

 
Remove the elevator halves from your work surface. From the parts bag provided in your kit, locate the pre-bent 1/8" dia. 
wire elevator joiner. As shown on the plans, this joiner fits into each elevator half. Use a pencil to mark the location of the 
required 1/8" dia. holes that must be drilled into the leading edge of each elevator half to accept the wire joiner. To best 
control the centering of these holes, we suggest using a non-powered twist drill. Make each hole 1" deep and at 90 deg. to 
the leading edge of the elevator halves. The leading edges of the elevator halves, from the just drilled holes, inboard 
through the E-4 and E-5 parts, must now be grooved to accept the 1/8" dia. wire joiner.

Summary of Contents for Somethin' EXTRA N477SC

Page 1: ......

Page 2: ...ered to provide you with an enjoyable building experience The plans were developed using our powerful CAD Computer Aided Design system To insure absolute accuracy the individual parts themselves were then generated using these same plans through a path directly to our computerized laser cutting system This methodology produces incredible accuracy minimizing and or eliminating the need to prepare p...

Page 3: ...nate fumes Sanding Blocks And Straight Edges It has been correctly said that the difference between a good model and a great one is sandpaper and the knowledge of how to use it In these instructions you will note that we often mention sanding blocks T bar sanders etc You will definitely need several sanding blocks to build this model If you don t already have one do yourself a favor and purchase a...

Page 4: ...2 6 32 x1 1 2 Round Head Bolt Wheel Axles 4 6 32 Lock Nuts Wheel Axle Assembly 2 6 32 Hex Nuts Wheel Axle Assembly 7 6 32 Blind Mounting Nuts Landing Gear Motor Mount Attach 8 2 x1 2 Pan Head Screws Control Horn Attach 6 6 Metal Washers Wheel Axle Assembly 1 Piece of 1 x8 Fiberglass Tape 18 SIG Easy Hinges Ailerons 8 Elevators 6 Rudder 4 Miscellaneous Parts 1 7 8 O D x15 1 4 Aluminum Tube Wing Joi...

Page 5: ...od Ink will invariably leach through your film covering material and could ruin the finish Use a well sharpened 2 pencil for best results Use a small piece of masking tape and a pen to identify each of the various laser cut parts To do this refer to the Key To Laser Cut Parts drawings Note that the outlines of the actual laser cut parts themselves have been purposely interrupted at various points ...

Page 6: ... ...

Page 7: ...bs on the bottom rear 3 From the laser cut parts in your kit locate wing ribs W 1A through W 7 and the two plywood aileron servo trays that fit between ribs W 3 and W 4 Check each rib to make sure that each of the laser cut holes are cleared out vent holes etc Now is also a good time to make sure your aileron servos fit into the standard servo cut outs provided in each of the ply servo trays If re...

Page 8: ...ed spar provides gluing surface for the center sheeting and the cap strips We have found the easiest way to glue the leading edge sheeting in place is to do it in two steps 1 Start with the leading edge glue joint where it mates to the top rear face of the 3 8 leading edge Apply a bead of glue along the entire length of the sheeting on its front edge only Fit the sheeting in place to the top rear ...

Page 9: ...he exposed back half of the spar Carefully position this sheet to minimize high spots gaps etc Use weight or pins to secure in place and spray with accelerator BUILDERS TIP When edge gluing two pieces of sheeting off the structure it is always best to sand the resulting joint smooth on both sides with a sanding block before gluing the sheet in place This practice minimizes high and low spots bumps...

Page 10: ... to the contours of the wing Sand the face of W 1A smooth avoiding contact with the two exposed tube ends Trial fit the ply W 1 rib in place to W 1A NOTE When the W 1 rib is in place with the female wing receptacle tube inserted into its corresponding hole the rear 3 16 dia wing locating dowel holes in both W 1 and W 1A will line up exactly Use the 3 16 dia dowel in your parts bag as a temporary f...

Page 11: ... the laser cut aileron control horn holes top and bottom to reinforce these areas Lay the cut piece of fiberglass in place over the holes and flood the tape with thin CA glue until the weave is full Allow to set and repeat the process with the other side of the aileron Repeat the process on the remaining aileron Use sandpaper to lightly sand the glass smooth BUILDERS TIP After cutting the fibergla...

Page 12: ...cedure with the two holes on each side of the stab Save the excess drilled dowel material as it will be used during fuselage construction 30 The tail group is now basically assembled We suggest that now is a good time to sand these assemblies In order to sand the fin rudder and stabilizer elevators assemblies uniformly use masking tape on one side only to temporarily attach the rudder to the fin a...

Page 13: ...ermine the required spacing between the two engine mounts to fit your particular engine Use a pencil to mark that spacing onto the face of the firewall Example If the width of your engine s case is 1 3 8 then divide that figure in half 11 16 and mark the face of the firewall with the 11 16 measurement on each side of the vertical centerline Use a triangle to draw two parallel lines one at each 11 ...

Page 14: ... these openings as required and to drill the required holes for mounting them to the tray Once the tray is ready glue it in place to the fuselage side just above the 3 16 dia rear wing locator dowel hole and to F 4 engaging the rear tab on the servo tray in the top cut out in F 4 IMPORTANT With both fuselage sides properly in place the rear 3 16 dia holes for the wing root locating dowel on each s...

Page 15: ...r fuselage formers Because of the rudder and elevator pushrod orientation they must be installed in the correct direction The cross sections on the plans show these formers facing forward toward the nose this is the correct position for each former Locate the 1 4 x1 2 leftover length of balsa that you were asked to save in Step 27 This piece of scrap will now be used as a spacer at the rear of the...

Page 16: ...op Rear sheet FTR in place from the top rear face of F 4 to the front face of F 7 This is easy to do by first fitting FTR securely in place to the fuselage and using thin CA glue with a thin applicator extension applying the glue from the inside of the fuselage Glue the Fuselage Stab Mount FSM in place behind F 7 into the fuselage sides Lightly sand the top surfaces of these parts smooth with a sm...

Page 17: ...space the rail 1 16 above the fuselage side and secure it with pins from the outside of the fuselage Take your time and make sure it is uniformly spaced 1 16 above the side of the fuselage Repeat this process on the opposite side with the remaining rail Glue the ply hatch base onto the tops of each rail aligning its edges with the fuselage sides and holding its forward end with the 5 16 dia hole i...

Page 18: ...nto the fuselage This is done by first engaging the rear dowel into the locating hole in the F 4 Cap centering the locating rails and pressing the hatch in place There should be very little gap at the front of the hatch If the fit seems too tight lightly sand the face of F 2T 68 Locate the remaining length of 5 16 dia center drilled dowel As shown on the plans this dowel fits into the front of the...

Page 19: ... fuselage with rounded edges on the bottom and at the nose Take your time and do a good job At this point you need to make a decision regarding the covering technique for this model We are aware that some modelers prefer to cover the stabilizer fin and fairing blocks separately off the fuselage and glue them in place afterwards While this technique may work for some we prefer to glue these surface...

Page 20: ...ch the two motor mount arms to the firewall Without the muffler installed place your engine onto the motor mounts and locate it to the previously drilled holes with at least two of 6 32 x1 bolts without nuts You will likely note that in order for your engine to fit in place with the muffler attached the right fuselage side must first be trimmed to accept the manifold We suggest about 1 8 clearance...

Page 21: ...e cover of this kit is fairly easy to accomplish In the case of the wing panels stabilizer and fin we used the plans themselves to develop the color separation lines patterns These patterns were drawn on drafting vellum directly over the plans taking care to keep the color seams over solid wood The pattern was then taped over both colors of covering film one underneath the other and cut using a me...

Page 22: ...ng panels using the same method as the elevators Again be careful to make sure that the correct aileron is hinged to its correct wing panel control horn holes on the inboard side of W 3 NOTE The rudder will be hinged using the same methods in this section after the tailwheel has been installed in the FINAL ASSEMBLY section FINAL ASSEMBLY Canopy Some builders may wish to install a pilot If so it sh...

Page 23: ...or a really nice look use a good metal polish such as Simichrome or Flitz to polish these support wires and solder links to a high luster chrome like finish d The two lower support arms are made in the same way The only difference is that the inboard solder link arms will overlap each other and be attached to the fuselage with a single 2 56 x3 8 bolt passing through the holes in each link and into...

Page 24: ...m into the mounting plate f Apply glue to the inner face of the mounting plate and glue it inside the wheel pant with its two mounting holes lined up with the two holes drilled in the pant use the 4 40 x3 8 bolts to tighten the plate to the inside surface of the pant g Note that if any of the ply mounting plate is exposed in the pant slot it needs to be trimmed away with a sharp 11 blade to match ...

Page 25: ... nylon tie wrap through the holes provided in the tray This method is simple lightweight and effective It also provides excellent access to the receiver servo receptacles with the canopy hatch removed The receiver antenna is fed through the antenna tube exiting at the bottom rear of the fuselage We would also suggest using the radio manufacturer s antenna strain relief included with your system As...

Page 26: ...lder the link in place and reconnect the completed pushrod to the aileron servo and nylon control horn 95 Locate the 18 length of metal throttle cable a solder link a nylon R C link and the 2 56 x3 4 threaded brass coupler Slide the brass coupler onto one end of the cable and solder it in place Thread the nylon R C link in place onto the threaded brass coupler From the firewall side insert the cab...

Page 27: ... independent movement of each aileron to control roll This is a versatile mixing feature as long as the pilot maintains elevator input as required ELEVATOR FLAP ELEVATORS and FLAPS Elevator to Flap mixing is also a good feature It interfaces the elevators to the flaps allowing both surfaces to work together When mixed together the flaps travel downward while the elevators travel upwards at a progr...

Page 28: ...l hang lower This can have a negative effect on how this or any other model flies and will show up in certain maneuvers It should be corrected The quickest fix is to add small stick on weights to the lighter wingtip until model hangs level A neater method is to cut a small hole in the wingtip place the lead inside securely and recover the area No matter how you do the job a laterally balanced mode...

Page 29: ...nited States is the ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS commonly called the AMA The AMA SAFETY CODE provides guidelines for the safe operation of R C model airplanes While AMA membership is not necessarily mandatory it is required by most R C flying clubs in the U S and provides you with important liability insurance in case your R C model should ever cause serious property damage or personal injury to s...

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