3B3: Anchoring
Anchoring can be accomplished safely with a minimum of fuss if you are
prepared
. Or,
if you are not ready, it can be stressful and dangerous for you or the boat.
Before attempting to anchor, select an anchorage with a soft bottom such as sand, mud,
or gravel, if possible. Look at the charts and cruising guides for tips on good locations. Then,
choose the spot
in
the anchorage where you have room to “swing” on the anchor without
disturbing other boats. Remember, responsibility for leaving room goes to each successive
boat to arrive, for the first boat has priority in the anchorage!
Here in the Northwest, because of the deep waters, all-chain rodes and small bays, we
anchor a little differently than in the Gulf of Mexico or Carribean, for example.
First,
except in
severe weather we use anchor chain scopes of only 4-to-1 or 5-to-1. For example, in water
that is 40 feet at low tide in the typical anchorage, we might use 160 feet of chain unless the
weather was to be gale force or greater winds.
Second,
because of the small bays and steep bottoms, we often rig a
shore line
from
the stern of the boat to shore. The best example of this would be at Todd Inlet at Butchart
Gardens: Here is a bay that can accommodate 8 - 10 boats, yet it is only about 150' wide and
200' long! Boats attach their bows to the mooring buoys or, in a few cases, anchor; and then
their sterns are secured to rings provided in the steep cliffs overlooking the bay. Boats are
thus perhaps only 15-20' apart, side to side.
Third,
boats often will “raft” side by side in busy marinas, although this is not very
common.
Fourth,
courteous boaters will call vessels coming into busy bays and offer to let them
raft to the same buoy, if signs on the buoys do not limit usage to only one boat depending
upon length.
Anchoring safely requires two persons, one at the helm maneuvering the boat and one
on the bow operating the anchor. Putting the bow of the boat over the spot where the anchor is
to be placed after checking the depth on the depth sounder, the windlass foot-switches are
used to lower the anchor slowly toward (but not onto) the bottom, by watching the chain
markings.
The 250' chain is measured by marks on the chain as follows:
10'
Red-Yellow-Red Stripe
50'
Yellow Stripe
100'
Red Stripe
150'
Yellow Stripe
200'
Red Stripe
240'
Red-Yellow-Red Stripe
When the anchor is about to reach bottom, the boat is backed away by putting the
engines into reverse for 5 seconds: eddies from the chain indicate motion. Resume lowering
the anchor while drifting backwards (watch the eddies and add another burst or reverse if
necessary!) until the desired amount of chain is out. Stop paying out chain. Engage reverse
for five seconds at a time until the chain starts to pull straight off the bow toward the anchor.
A
straight chain indicates a “set” anchor!
NEVER pull on the chain for more than five seconds, and never at any
engine RPM other than idle! Putting the boat’s weight plus its horsepower
Section 3B: Maneuvering Suggestions 3.4
