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Experience shows that the most common problems that occur with the Klipper Tools are
Operator related. Although this is an easy Tool to use (because the design is similar to the
familiar “Nail Gun”) – the KODI TOOL IS NOT A NAIL GUN. The Piston Shaft that drives the
Klips onto the rebar is significantly more robust in comparison to the Piston Shaft in a Nail
Gun. A Nail Gun only needs to push a pointed object INTO a piece of wood, while the Klipper
Tool must forcefully press 4 very stout legs AROUND rebar. This extra force results in a large
amount of low amplitude vibrations. A daily inspection of the Tool (for example, during daily
oiling) will allow the Operator to tighten (but DO NOT overtighten) fasteners which ensures that
key component parts of the Tool last longer. Typical wear items are minimal cost parts that are
easily replaced/repaired (Sensor Shaft, Nail Stop Plates, Pusher Spring and Feeder Spring).
Using a Tool without the Sensor Shaft properly installed, however, will result in an extreme
increase of jams, and these jams will cause critical parts, such as Piston Shafts, Nose Pieces
and Door Assemblies to break. We have found that a minor amount of training on proper
Klipping techniques and educating Operators about the need to protect critical parts with daily
inspection will lead to a significant reduction in Tool downtime and repair costs.
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSES
SOLUTION
No Klip on Rebar
Joint After Firing
1. Low Air Pressure at Tool.
1. Check air supply to Tool. Make sure it is
at least 75 PSI (5.2 Bar) at the Tool.
Increase air pressure by 10 PSI (.69
Bar) increments up to a max of 110 PSI
(7.6 Bar).
2. Wrong Klip for rebar joint size.
2. Change Klip Rack to correct size for
rebar joint.
3. Piston jammed / broken.
3. Replace Piston.
4. The rebar flexed-away during firing.
4. Not enough Back Pressure on the rebar.
5. The Tool bounced off Joint.
5. Constant physical pressure must be
applied to the Tool during shooting.
APPENDIX A: TROUBLESHOOTING
Summary of Contents for KTA-3 Series
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