EXTERIOR & INTERIOR CARE — 3
74
2008 IMPERIAL
WOOD CARE
For general cleaning, regularly wipe wood
surfaces using a soft cloth lightly dampened
with clear warm water. Thoroughly dry to
prevent streaking. For stubborn stains, use a
clean cloth dampened with a solution of mild
non-alkaline soap (dishwashing liquid) and
water and rinse. Dry thoroughly, buf
fi
ng in
the direction of the wood grain. Never use
abrasive cleaners, scouring pads or powdered
cleansers. Polishing products used on the solid
wood surface depends on individual preference.
Always follow product instructions.
Excessive dampness, dryness, heat, or cold
can damage solid wood
fi
nishes. Sunlight
can change the color or age the wood. Never
allow moisture or spills to stand, always blot
dry immediately. Solvents, alcohol, nail polish
and polish removers, as well as harsh cleaners,
should not be used on
fi
nished wood surfaces.
Minor damage to solid wood surfaces can be
repaired quickly and effectively with a bit of
hard work, some careful attention to details, and
most importantly, the right materials. However,
any wood repair or
fi
nishing job is best left for a
professionally trained individual.
NOTE:
It is important to inform the service
technician of any products used for the
care and cleaning in the event of wood
repairs.
Sanding and Sandpaper:
The following table is a general guide, but this
may vary with wood type. The key to sanding
is using the right sandpaper for the repair that is
needed. Always sand with the grain.
Steel Wool:
Abrasive material composed of long steel
fi
bers of varying degrees of
fi
neness that are
matted together. Coarser grades are used to
remove paint and other
fi
nishes; the
fi
ner grades
for polishing or smoothing a
fi
nished surface.
Nail Holes and Small Cracks:
Fill nail holes and small cracks with wood
putty or dough for unstained woods prior to any
sanding. Stained
fi
nishes require
fi
lling holes
and cracks after the stain has been applied. Putty
should match the stain closely in color.
TIP:
A little sawdust and wood glue can be
used to make putty for end grains.
Scratches and Nicks:
“Quick and simple” rarely describes repairs
to stained wood
fi
nishes; however, a few tricks
used by professional woodworkers can be tried
to repair nicks and scratches.
Fixing scratches in stained woodwork:
Light scratches will often disappear when
carefully rubbed with furniture polish or paste
wax. When scratches appear lighter than the
surrounding dark-stained woodwork, it usually
means either that the scratch goes through the
stain into the wood or that the varnish is
fl
aking
off. Deeper scratches can be hidden by carefully
rubbing with a piece of oily nut meat such as
Brazil nut, black walnut or pecan. Be careful
to rub the nut meat directly into the scratch to
avoid darkening of the surrounding wood. Color
the scratch with brown coloring crayon or liquid
shoe dye (especially good on walnut). Always
test a procedure on an inconspicuous area on the
wood to ensure no damages to the
fi
nish occurs.
Staining the scratch with iodine:
Mahogany -
Use new iodine.
Brown or Cherry Mahogany -
Use iodine
that has turned dark brown.
Maple -
Dilute one part iodine with one part
denatured alcohol.
Commercial scratch removers, or stick wax to
match the wood
fi
nish, can also be used. After
the scratch has been hidden, polish or wax the
entire area. Deep scratches should be repaired
and
fi
nished by a professional.
GRIT
GRADE
USE
80-120
Medium
Smoothing the surface,
removing small marks.
150-180
Fine
Final sanding prior to
fi
nishing.
220-240
Very Fine
Sanding between coats
of sealing.
280-320
Extra Fine
Removing dust spots
or mark between
fi
nish
coats.
360-600
Super Fine
Removing luster or
surface blemishes.
