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6. Temperature Display is erratic or incorrect.
a. Either the controller is corrupt or
b. The thermocouples are polar sensitive and will yield
erratic numbers or even move down in temp when
the process is heating if they are wired in reverse. The
unit may also flash an unusually high number and
then immediately indicate that the cycle has ended.
Make certain that purple or white leads are positive
(+) and red leads are negative (-) at all junctions.
c. Is the unit housed in an extremely drafty location.
Rapidly changing temperatures around the control
can cause erratic temperature display.
7. Colostrum is separated or congealed
a. The most common cause for milk or colostrum
to separate or congeal is acidification of the milk
caused by two processes:
i. Fermentation of the milk by bacteria will cause
the release of lactic acid and other acidic by-
products resulting in a lower pH of the milk.
This in turn allows it to separate. The heat of
pasteurization will exacerbate this problem. To
control this, cool the milk during holding stages
or pasteurize the milk sooner after collection to
prevent the start of fermentation.
b. Acidic cleaners that find access to the colostrum can
also cause a low pH and congealing of product.
8. Circulation Pump is not pumping
a. Check the fuse for the pump (F3)
b. If the fuse is good, make certain that the wire to the
pump has not been damaged or pulled out of the
terminal block.
c. If there is power to the pump and it will not turn,
replace the pump.
d. If there is no power to the pump and the fuse is
good, check the control. There should be line voltage
between terminal 9 (bottom) to a neutral wire
during heating or cooling. No voltage could indicate
problems with the controller.
e. Use the manual settings to check pump function
9. Delay start does not come on automatically
a. Follow instructions to make certain the clock is set
for the correct time of day.
10. Cycle starts automatically when toggle is switched on
a. Your pasteurizer is equipped with a security feature
that reminds it to come back on to its last unfinished
cycle once power is restored after a power failure.
This will also occur if someone shuts the unit off prior
to completion of its assigned cycles, and the unit
will automatically restart when the toggle switch or
power is restored. If a long time period has elapsed,
the control will reset itself. If it does not it will restart
when power is returned and must be reset by using
the ABORT PROFILE command as listed on the
control.
b. If the unit begins to heat even when power is not
applied, the only explanation would be one or more
damaged solid state relays that are allowing current
to flow to heaters at all times. The high temperature
thermostat will eventually protect the unit from
overheating, but SSR’s mush be repaired/replaced
immediately.
11. Cooling solenoid valve will not stop running
a. Check the power supply to the valve. IF there is
power keeping it open during unwanted times,
the control could be malfunctioning. Replace the
control.
b. It is possible that some debris has held the solenoid
open. Disconnect power and remove tubing from
valve inside cabinet. Blow into the supply hose
to eject any debris from the valve or force water
backward through the valve.
c. The valve may need to be replaced if it is powering
properly but not closing when the solenoid closes
d. Float Valve may be defective and not telling the
control that the unit is full of water.