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Perfect Udder® Bag PASTEURIZER/WARMER Owner Manual
revJUNE2016
c. If there is power through the thermostat but no
current draw in the line, the heater is damaged and
requires replacement.
d. Check the Solid State Relay (SSR)
i. Is there line voltage at position 1 & 2 of the SSR
when calling for heat? If not, check the SSR.
There should be a D/C signal though position’s
3
(+)
and 4
(–)
of the SSR and the LED on the SSR
should be lit when activated. Line voltage is
supplied to the SSR through the black wire at
position 1. Once signaled by the D/C, there
should be A/C line voltage out of the black wire
position 2 to the SST. If not, replace the SSRii.
No D/C signal to the SSR through position’s
3
(+)
and 4
(–)
. Check to make sure the control is
indicating heat on the display when operating
a normal heat cycle. Three (3) small red heating
boxes will flash in upper right hand corner of
control window. Check outputs 5, 6 and 7 from
the control for signals to the SSR 3
(+)
.
g. 240VAC is getting to the heating elements but still
no heat, replace the heating element.
TO TEST HEAT CIRCUIT, SEE CONTROLLER
INSTRUCTIONS PG 16
3. Bath does not get to temperature but the Heater is
hot and drawing current.
a. This is a function of heat exchange. Check the amp
draw and compare for a 4500watt heater with the
local line voltage to determine if it is working at full
capacity. Possibly one or more heating elements are
damaged.
b. Cold water is coming into the system. If there is
a leak in the system, such as a leaking cold water
solenoid valve, the heater cannot keep up and the
bath will not heat properly. Repair the leak or replace
the valve if water continues to flow out of the unit.
4. Water is leaking out the bottom of the Unit
a. Check the drain line to see if water is draining when
it is not supposed to. May need to replace the seal in
the bottom of the drain pipe. See next image.
5. Bath will not cool
a. At the end of the heating and time-out cycle, the
cooling solenoid valve should automatically open
and flow cold water into the unit forcing out the hot
water down the overflow drain.
i. Make certain the cold water supply to the unit is
always on … it is common to find that someone
has shut the valve not knowing its importance.
ii. Make certain that the user did not initiate a
“Heat Only” cycle after which the unit does
not cool the bath automatically. Use the “Full
pasteurization cycles” to make sure it goes
through all steps.
b. Check the cooling solenoid valve. The thermocouple
temperature must be 100F, or above your cool
setting in the control for the cycle to initiate.
i. During a cooling segment of the profile with
the #2 LED on the control lit up, is there power
to the solenoid valve? If the power is on and the
machine has water but it will not flow, replace
the valve.
ii. No power to the valve: Check the Valve
fuse
(F4). Replace if necessary and check for power
to the fuse from the control through terminal 8
(BOTTOM) blue wire. IF there is no line voltage
power from the control at terminal 8 (BOTTOM)
then the control may be damaged.
c. Check the water supply to make sure screens and
filters are free from debris and there are no kinks in
the hoses.
d. Use manual settings to check the valve.
Drain Pipe
