Canadair CL-415
8
Fix the nacelles to the wing using three M4 x 30 mm screws each (you did remember to route the motor
cables out of the wing, didn’t you?), and run thin cyano all round the periphery (and also to the screws
inside the nacelles); reinforce the joints with epoxy when the cyano has set hard. Cut the guide vanes to
shape from 1 mm ABS sheet as shown in section E-E (trim the joint edge to fit snugly first!), and glue them
in place using thin cyano. The half-ribs (93) are supplied in two forms: 1.2 and 3 mm thick; choose the
ones you prefer. Trim them to fit (the radius of the nacelle is in the way), align them as shown in section E-
E, and glue them in place. Trim the leading edge gussets (85) to fit and glue them in place.
Cut out the plastic fairings (86) and (87) neatly (both are present in left and right versions) and trim them to
fit. Sand back the rear edge of both parts to a neat taper, as they should blend continuously into the wing
section. Fix them with thin cyano. Apply a sparing fillet of filler all round the nacelles: see Figs. 27 to 29.
Solder the motors to the power cables, install the motor fairings and spinners, set them dead central by
lining up the spinners, and drill the mounting holes. Glue the dummy oil coolers (89) in place. Cut out the
dummy mountings for the landing flaps (90), sand them flat and glue them together using acetone. Sand
the top surface of the mountings flat and glue them to the wing using thin cyano. When fitting these parts
do take care to line them up accurately; all eight of them should form a neat line.
The position of the two battery holders (16) can now be established. Temporarily stow the servos, receiver
and speed controller in the fuselage and fit the steel pushrods (26). Temporarily attach the elevators to the
tailplane, place the flight pack on the fuselage floor, and mount the wing with the power units. Support the
model on the underside of the wing at the marked CG position (close to the wing root), and adjust the
position of the battery to correct any discrepancy. When you are satisfied, mark the battery position before
dismantling the model again. Position the battery supports so that the battery can still be moved fore and
aft by about +/- 15 mm for fine trimming.
Mark the position of both battery supports (16) on the fuselage floor, and roughen the joint surfaces with
abrasive paper. They should be glued in place securely using thickened resin. Apply the adhesive to the
support flanges, and press them against the fuselage floor so that the resin is forced through the 2 mm Ø
holes previously drilled. Apply a fillet of glue round the supports. When the resin has cured, trim the
support formers (19) to fit and glue them to parts (16) using thin cyano. Fix them to the fuselage using
resin.
Cut out the circular window panels, glue together three pieces of balsa about 3 x 5 mm in section in a star-
shape, and sand them flat. They should be painted light grey (Humbrol enamel) and glued to the fuselage
using thin cyano after it has been painted and the decals have been applied.
Fig. 31 shows the fuselage with the spray rails already fitted, together with the breakaway plates X, Y and
Z. The position of parts Y and Z is stated on the plan - i.e. set the fuselage horizontal on the table and
mark the positions on the fuselage. Use a fine-blade fretsaw to cut out the inside shape of the panels from
the 1 mm ABS sheet supplied, leaving the outside shape slightly oversize initially. Trim them to fit on the
fuselage and glue them in place using the minimum of thin cyano (apply it on a pointed stick). Trim the joint
edge of part Z approximately to follow the angle of the fuselage nose.
Mark the outline of parts X on the ABS sheet supplied (omitting the round cut-outs), and carefully mark the
central holes. Use a sharp 8 mm Ø wood bit (with two pointed cutters at the periphery) to drill all the holes.
We suggest that you try out this procedure on some scrap ABS so that you get the hang of it. Only then cut
the periphery, position them accurately on the fuselage and glue them in place using thin cyano.
A tip: if you intend to try rise-off-water take-offs, cut parts X about 20 mm longer and about 2 - 3 mm
deeper than shown, as this provides better protection against spray (less water reaches the propellers).
The all-up weight, with a 12-cell Panasonic 180 EX battery, should now be about 2350 g; the lower, the
better.
Painting:
first check the surface of the model thoroughly - the more perfect and even, the better the
painted finish will look. Use a tack-cloth or an anti-static cloth to remove all traces of dust from the surfaces
to be sprayed. You did remove all the control surfaces first, didn’t you? These parts must be sprayed
separately.
We recommend the use of two-pack acrylic car paints. The yellow is RAL 1007 (chrome yellow), the red
(approximately) RAL 3020; although Standox paint, Mix 541 (ruby red), is a better match. These paints
have superb covering power, i.e. the weight gain is minimal.
An alternative method is to use Humbrol enamel paints, intended for plastic kits: yellow No. 188 (chrome
yellow), red No. 19, and original thinners. The circular window should be squirrel grey, No. 126. Spray the
spinners with metal, Code No. 27003 - 0 (polished steel), then re-polish. The upper walkways should be
No. 27, matt sea grey.
Use good-quality masking tape to mask off individual areas, referring to the photos; the yellow should be
sprayed first. Carefully seal off the colour dividing line (tape edge) with thinned primer.
Caution: the surface of the model features dozens of projections, and if you try to spray everything at once,
you will inevitably get “runs” where too much paint collects in corners. Instead use a fine spraygun and
spray the projecting details first, e.g. the landing flap mountings, guide vanes etc., followed by the
