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With the soundwell glued to the top, the body assembly is
now very stable, and you can remove the waist clamp. Mark
the soundwell edge and the kerfing with pencil, and sand it
as you did the top and back. Put pressure in the center over
the soundwell, and not on the outer edges. You’ll sand away
the pencil marks quickly, so don’t work too hard!
To check that the soundwell is level with the back kerfing,
rest the body face down on your bench and place a straight-
edge across the soundwell kerfing. Rotate the straightedge
in a complete circle on the soundwell, and watch the gap
between the straightedge and the back kerfing: you’ll see
where it doesn’t touch the back kerfing. Perhaps those areas
will need a little extra pressure as you sand — mark them
with pencil as you did the top and back, and watch for the
pencil marks to disappear as you sand. Check your progress
until the straightedge contacts the side kerfing and the
soundwell kerfing evenly. The body is ready for the back to
be glued on.
At this point, you should have retained squareness between
the top and sides. Squareness is especially important at the
neck block in order to have the right playability later. If you
are out of square now, it can’t be by much. If you are, make a
note of it and adjust for that when you glue on the back, by
pushing or pulling the neck block and sides into square.
Install the back as you did the top. You don’t need the waist
clamp, but it won’t hurt to use. Start clamping at the waist
and sides, glue the tail block first, and the neck block last
(12)
. This is your last opportunity to square the neck block to
the top if needed.
To add extra pressure in the soundwell area, clamp a flat
board across the back
(13)
. A little glue squeeze-out is a sign
that you have a good glue joint.
When the glue has dried, use the flush-cutting router bit to
trim the overhang from the top and back.
12.
A good back clamping setup.
Installing the back
13.
To add extra pressure in the sound well area, clamp a flat board
across the back.
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