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Day One:
Spray three wet (not runny) clear coats on the
neck and body, an hour between coats, and let them dry
overnight.
Day Two:
Lightly “scuff-sand” the neck with 320-grit Fre-Cut®
paper to knock off the high spots in the finish (on flat areas,
be sure to use a backing pad on the sandpaper). Sand just
enough to “open” the finish; don’t try to sand out every shiny
spot or sunken area in the lacquer. Clean off the sanding
residue. Now spray the neck with three uniform coats of clear
lacquer, one hour between coats. You now have six coats on
the neck and three coats on the body. Let the guitar dry
overnight.
Day Three:
Lightly scuff-sand the finish with 320-grit paper
again, and clean off the residue. You can be slightly more
aggressive in flattening the sprayed surface now, but be
careful on the curves of the neck, and on any of the edges of
the neck and body (it’s easy to sand through the edges).
Don’t try to sand out all the shiny spots yet. This sanding will
release solvent from the finish and help it to cure. Let the fin-
ish dry for two more days.
Day Six:
Once again, spray three wet clear coats, one hour
apart, on the neck. Spray two wet clear coats, one hour apart,
on the body. Let the finish dry overnight.
Day Seven:
Scuff-sand the finish with 320-grit again. This
time most of the shiny spots will disappear, leaving a uni-
formly dull look. Spray three more clear coats on the neck,
one hour apart. Spray two more coats, one hour apart, on the
body. Allow overnight drying.
Day Eight:
Lightly scuff-sand the finish with 600-grit Fre-
Cut® sandpaper, to help the solvent escape. The neck and
body should now be left in a warm dry location for two
weeks to let the finish harden and shrink.
Dry-sand the neck and body to a flat, dull sheen with 800-grit
Fre-Cut® sandpaper. Clean the residue off the sandpaper
often by rubbing it against a scrap of carpet. Any “orange-
peel” texture (caused by lacquer shrinkage as the solvents
cure out of the finish) should be removed, but don’t over-
sand. When all the little shiny low spots in the lacquer have
been removed, you’re ready to go to the next step.
Wet-sand with 1200-grit micro-finishing paper and water to
bring the finish to a smooth satin surface that’s ready for final
polishing. Excess water and residue should be wiped off the
finish often with a clean dry soft cloth as you work. Rinse the
sandpaper in soapy water often, to remove hard specks that
can scratch the finish. (Note: Soak the micro-finishing paper
in water overnight before use. It will scratch less and last
longer.)
Using soft cloths, or an electric hand drill with foam polishing
pads (a separate pad for each compound), rub out the fine
wet-sanding scratches to a final gloss with medium and fine
polishing compounds. You can follow this with swirl remover
if desired. Clean off the residue left by the polishes, remove
the remaining masking tape from the neck, and remove the
soundhole masking materials.
You’re ready to put the guitar back together — just as you’ve
done once already — only this time, you can play it as much
as you want because the wood is now protected! Have fun
with your new Bluegrass Resomaster!
Wet-sanding and rubbing out the finish
Lacquer spraying schedule
Содержание Bluegrass Resomaster
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