
.
Typically 4-strokes have an exhaust stack/muffler which is adjustable in direction, so there shouldn't be any special installation
problems. The exhaust can be easily directed outside the cowling.
2-stroke engines also fly this airplane very nicely. Any plainbearing or bearing
equipped .40 - .46 cu. in. sport engine would be a good choice. For example, a great
choice would be the Irvine .46 engine. Like all Irvine engines, the .46 is powerful,
reliable, and quiet.
Our preferred installation is to side-mount the engine. You can use the engine’s stock
muffler, but in most cases that will necessitate cutting away a large portion of the side
of the cowling to clear the muffler. A better alternative is to use an "after market"
muffler, such as the J’TEC #JTC605 Universal In-Cowl Muffler shown here. This type
of muffler will be completely enclosed inside the cowling. Use rubber extensions on
the exhaust tubes to extend them out the bottom of the cowl.
Whatever engine you choose, take the time to carefully break it in according to the
manufacturer's instructions. A good running, reliable engine is a minimum requirement
for the enjoyment of this or any R/C model aircraft.
Radio Equipment
The Piper J-3 Cub requires a standard 4-channel radio system and five standard
servos. We have used and can highly recommend both the Airtronics and Hitec
radio systems. For reference, this assembly manual shows the installation of an
Airtronics radio system with standard servos. In addition, you will need two aileron
24" servo lead extensions and an aileron servo Y-harness for connection to the
receiver.
Required Tools
For proper assembly, we suggest you have the following tools and materials available:
Razor Saw
Hobby Knife with sharp #11 Blades
Scissors
Diagonal Wire Cutters
Masking Tape
Sandpaper and Sanding Blocks
Paper Towels
Heat Iron and Trim Seal Tool
Small Allen Wrench Assortment
Pin Vise for Small Dia. Drill Bits
Screwdriver Assortment
Pliers - Regular & Needle Nose
Power Drill With Selection of Bits
Soldering Iron, Solder and Soldering Paste Flux
A selection of glues - SIG Thin and Thick CA and SIG Kwik-Set 5-Minute Epoxy
Clear Dope For Fuel-Proofing Engine Compartment
Threadlock Compound, Such as Loctite® Non-Permanent Blue
Dremel® Tool With Selection of Sanding and Grinding Bits
It has been correctly said that the difference between a good model and a great one is sandpaper and the knowledge of how to
use it. In these instructions you will note that we often mention "sanding blocks". An assortment of different size sanding blocks
are indispensable tools for all model construction. A sanding block will give you a much flatter, truer result than you would get
with an unbacked, limp piece of sandpaper held in your fingertips. There are many styles of commercially made sanding blocks
available in hobby shops, or you can make your own.
We suggest using 80 grit sandpaper during general construction, then switching to 220 or 360 grit for final sanding, before
covering.