15
c) Once you are satisfied with the fit of both the fuel clunk line
and the vent line you can tighten the screw to expand the rubber
stopper and seal the stopper in the tank. Do not over tighten the
screw as it can cause the tank to split. Attach three 6-inch lengths
of silicone fuel tubing (not furnished) to the tank and label them
appropriately as FILL, CARB, and VENT so you can identify them
after the tank is installed in the airplane.
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38) Install the Fuel Tank in the fuselage.
a) First trial fit the tank in place inside the fuselage to familiar-
ize yourself with how it mounts. The front of the tank should fit
through the hole in the firewall. The rear of the tank is supported
by a Plywood Fuel Tank Support.
b) Glue the plywood fuel tank support in place, up against the
back side of the fuselage former.
c) Apply a generous bead of "silicone sealer" around the neck
of the fuel tank (household bathroom silicone sealer is available
at most hardware stores - not furnished).
Then slide the fuel tank in place, through the back of the plywood
fyel tank support and up against the back of the firewall, with the
neck of the tank in the hole in the firewall. If excess silicone sealer
oozes out onto the front of the firewall, clean it off.
d) Use silicone sealer to glue the rear of the tank to the ply-
wood fuel tank support. Let dry before proceeding.
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39) Bolt the two Nylon Engine Mounts on the front of the fire-
wall, using M4 x 20mm Bolts and M4 Flat Washers provided. Note
that the blind nuts are already installed in the back of the firewall.
Leave the mounting bolts slightly loose for now. Do not tighten
them until the next step.
❑
40) Set your engine in place on the beams of the engine
mounts. Slide the engine forward or aft on the engine mounts until
the front of the engine's thrust washer is 4-1/4" from the front of
the firewall. Double check to make sure that the engine is pointing
exactly straight forward, and then carefully mark the locations of
the engine mounting holes on to the beams of the engine mounts.
❑
41) Now set your engine aside and unbolt the engine mounts
from the firewall. Drill clearance holes for your engine mounting
bolts all the way thru the engine mount beams at the four locations
you marked in the previous step. We recommend that you secure
the engine mounts in a vise while you drill the holes. Also, if at all
possible use a drill press to drill these holes. You can drill them
by hand, but if you have access to a drill press, the job will be
much easier and the holes will be straighter.
SAFETY ISSUE: Do not drill and tap these engine mounts.
Doing so may weaken them and cause failure. Use steel mount-
ing bolts, flat washers, and nylon insert lock nuts (not provided),
with holes in the mounts big enough to freely pass the bolts.
ENGINE MOUNTING BOLTS: Engines in the .40 to .46 size
range are right at the break point between using 4-40 or 6-32 size
mounting bolts. Some .40-.46 engines have small holes and use
4-40 bolts, while other .40-.46 engines have holes large enough
for 6-32 bolts. Be sure to buy the right size bolts for your engine.
Drill 1/8" dia. holes if you are using the 4-40 mounting bolts.
Drill 5/32" dia. holes if you are using 6-32 mounting bolts.
❑
42) Bolt the entire engine and engine mount assembly in posi-
tion on the firewall. Tighten all bolts firmly. We suggest using a
little thread lock compound (not supplied) on all the bolt threads
to keep them firmly in place.
❑
43) Connect the fuel tank to the engine using heat-proof silo-
cone based fuel line tubing (not supplied).
FILLING THE FUEL TANK
To fill the fuel tank when the 3rd line is capped shut, first remove
the other two fuel lines from the carburetor and the muffler pres-
sure fitting. Pump the fuel into the tank through the fuel pick-up
line (carb line). When the tank is full, fuel will begin to run out the
vent line (muffler line). Stop pumping when you see the fuel start