
.
119. Taper the rounded end of the WFT top
so it blends into the top of the wing and
glue it onto the top of F-6T and onto the
centerline of the wing.
120.
Sand a 45 deg. angle along the sides of
WFT to match former F-6T.
121.
Fit and glue the WFC pieces onto the
corners of the fairing by beveling the
bottom to match the top of WFS and the
wing skin.
122.
Lay strips of masking tape along the sides of the WFSs to protect the wing skin and sand the excess off the top of the
WFCs.
123.
Run the 13/64" (5.3mm) drill back through the hole for the bolt and through the top of the fairing piece to mark the location
of the wing hold down bolt. Install guide tube now, if desired.
124.
Sand the fairing pieces flush to the rear
of F-6T and bolt the wing onto the
fuselage again. Now shape the fairing to
blend into the rear of the fuselage.
125.
With scraps of 1/8"(3.2mm) balsa from
the laser cut sheets fill between F-4T
and the top of the wing and blend into
the front of the fuselage over F-4 up to
F-3T.
This completes the basic shaping of the wing and fuselage joint and now it is time to add the nacelles.
126.
Install the servo wires for the speed controls and aileron servos at this time. You will need two 12" extensions for the speed
controls and two for the aileron servos. Tie the plugs together in the center of the wing at the ends of a 6" piece of string to
make sure you don't pull them up into the wing by mistake, while working on the nacelles.
127.
On the bottom of the wing measure out 5-9/16" (141.3mm) from the centerline at both the leading edge and trailing edge
and extend these marks until they are visible from the top of the wing. These are the centerlines that the nacelles are
mounted on. From the nacelle centerline at the leading edge of each wing measure 1/4" (6.4mm) towards the wing tip and
make a mark. From this mark measure 1-1/2" (38.1mm) towards the center of the wing and cut into the front of the leading
edge at this mark 3/32" (2.4mm) deep.
See Drawing.
Remove a tapered piece from the
leading edge from the outboard mark to
the bottom of this cut. This gives a flat
spot on the leading edge for the top of
N-2 to glue to.