Figure 103
controls the shutter-speed scale. First set
the 0 shutter-speed setting, Fig. 103; that
lets off most of the initial tension.
Remove the speed knob and unscrew the
nut holding the speed selector. Then, as
you lift o ff the speed selector, disconnect
the tungsten wire from the adjustment
collar, Fig. 103. Careful — the ball detent
and compression spring for the speed
selector will be loose. W e'll describe the
procedure fo r reconnecting the tungsten
wire during reassembly.
Now take out the tw o screws holding
the pulley bracket, Fig. 103. W atch for
the loose spacer under one end of the
bracket (the end closer to the back of the
camera). Now lift out the mask lever. Fig.
103, and disconnect the wire link that
runs between the mask lever and the
viewfinder mask.
Remove the complete flex circuit by
taking out the tw o screws holding the
RTV resistor, the tw o screws holding the
SPD board, and the tw o ground screws
at the side of the mirror cage. A t the back
of the flex circuit, you can now see the
LED display and IC2, Fig. 104.
If you just want to check IC2, you can
reach the IC w itho u t completely removing
the flex circuit. Take out the tw o ground
screws at the side of the mirror cage.
Then lift the LED base plate, Fig. 104, far
enough from the mirror cage to reach the
IC. Suppose, for example, that you're
getting no LED readout..You might check
for 3V at pin 2 of IC2, Fig. 104, w ith the
release button partially depressed.
It's also possible to check the individual
LEDs w itho u t removing the flex circuit
completely. Fig. 104 points out the hole
that receives the ground screw. Connect
a jumper between the ground land at the
other side of this hole and the fro n t plate.
Then push the release button part way to
supply the LED anode voltages.
If you now short between a cathode
lead and ground. Fig. 104, the LED con
nected to that output should turn on.
W hat if it doesn't? The particular LED may
not be getting the 3V anode voltage (you
can check the anode voltages after remov
ing the plastic cover over the LED display).
Or the LED may be defective. However,
you can't get the LED base plate as a
separate part. A defective LED requires
replacing the complete flex circuit.
Fig. 105 shows the top of the shutter/
mirror-cage assembly after removing the
flex circuit. Notice that the speed-control
cam is now loose. In Fig. 105, you can see
how the speed-control cam positions the
mechanical-speed lever (the lever that
controls the shutter's bulb lever). A pin
on the mechanical-speed lever rides
against the speed-control cam. The pin
on the underside of the speed-control
cam positions the release-slide latch.
MIRROR-CAGE REPAIRS
For most of the mechanical repairs on
the mirror cage, you don 't have to
remove either the flex circuit or the shut
ter. In fact, you may not even have to
remove the mirror cage from the body
casting. If the problem is in the air
cylinder or the memory-time-lag adjust-
SPEEDCONTROL
LED DISPLAY
WIRE CLAMP
HOLE
FOR
GROUND
SCREW
LED BASE PLATE
MECHANICAL-
SPEED LEVER
Figure 104
Figure 105